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From his first vintage in 1978 Luciano Sandrone set out to make a more approachable and drinkable Barolo.  No one has managed to bridge tradition and innovation as brilliantly as Sandrone, rendering pointless any of the typical arguments in favor of one winemaking philosophy versus the other.  Over the years Sandrone has turned out a stunning group of wines, often reaching stratospheric heights.  Although Sandrone’s wines are accessible when young, they also age beautifully as is demonstrated by the wines from the 1980s.  Yet as magical as the older wines can be, Sandrone believes his recent releases are even better saying “today we know so much more about how to work in the vineyards and in the cellar.”   I consider Luciano Sandrone’s Cannubi Boschis to be one of a handful of benchmark wines for the region, well worth the effort of finding and cellaring.

Sandrone is one the most meticulous producers I have ever met.  He tends to his vineyards and winery with extraordinary passion and precision.  Sandrone’s plots are in the Cannubi Boschis (also known as Monghisolfo) vineyard, a seven hectare stretch which lies on the same hillside as Cannubi.  As I wrote in Issue 2, the estate’s holdings are divided into three sub-plots which have slightly different characteristics, and are therefore harvested and vinified separately.  The mostly south-facing plots and this producer’s preference for very low yields result in rich, concentrated wines that represent contemporary Barolo at its very best. ANTONIO GALLONI

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