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Christian Moreau Chablis New Releases

I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat. BURGHOUND, 2010

The Moreau family started harvesting on September 19 in 2009, with plenty of potential alcohol in the grapes. "We had perfect ripening conditions and very little disease pressure," noted Fabien Moreau. "A great August and a good September gave us a lot of natural maturity. Still, even though we waited to pick in 2009, we had good acidity levels: better than in 2006, more like 2005. In sum, 2009 is a pleasant surprise." Incidentally, as at Louis Michel, 2008 was the first vintage here that was vinified entirely with wild yeasts. "We like the much longer fermentations," said Fabien. "Now they take seven to ten days to start and then build slowly."  STEPHEN TANZER

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