If asked to name the greatest estates in Australia few people would not include Mount Mary and Watirna Estate whose reputation, both locally and abroad , for producing profound and site driven wines of the absolute highest quality and character is completely justified as is their cult status among avid collectors.  Mount Mary and Wantirna are legends of the wine trade.  ROSCOE, PWS

Superbly refined, elegant and intense Cabernets and usually outstanding and long-lived Pinot Noirs fully justify Mount Mary's exalted reputation. The Triolet blend is very good; more recent vintages of Chardonnay are even better. Founder and long-term winemaker, the late Dr John Middleton, was one of the great, and truly original, figures in the Australian wine industry. He liked nothing more than to tilt at windmills, and would do so with passion. His annual newsletter grew longer as each year passed, although the paper size did not. The only change necessary was a reduction in font size, and ultimately very strong light or a magnifying glass (or both) was needed to fully appreciate the barbed wit and incisive mind of this great character. The determination of the family to continue the business is simply wonderful. JAMES HALLIDAY

You don't need too many fingers to count the number of 'cult' wineries of the 1970s and early 1980s that are still in the hands of their original owners. Fewer still are actually performing better today than ever before. Wantirna Estate is one such winery and its modern success is a culmination of experience, the introduction of fresh ideas and a proven ability to learn. Today its wines offer a rare combination of genuine international style, attitude and fineness, not to mention the more obvious aspects of being simply delicious to drink. JEREMY OLIVER