The Genius of Riesling - Aussie Riesling in the spotlight
I think that Riesling is indisputably the greatest white wine
grape in the world but many people think I am mad. Riesling has its own very
distinctive character which varies immensely and excitingly according to exactly
where it is grown. Riesling responds rather badly to winemaking tricks. It is
happiest when it is just fermented as simply as possible and the pure fermented
juice bottled with minimal resort to oak, malolactic fermentation, less stirring
and so on. To me Riesling is great not just because it, like Pinot
Noir for example, is so exceptionally good at expressing terroir, but also
because it makes white wines that are so good at ageing.
Most of southern Europe is too warm for Riesling; if it ripens
too fast and early, it fails to build any flavour. This makes it all the more
surprising to find an enclave of fine Riesling production in South Australia,
not known for its low temperatures. Both the Clare Valley north of Adelaide and
Eden Valley to the east have established reputations for great dry Riesling, the
sort of punchy, confident wine that goes perfectly with the Pacific rim cuisine
of which Australians are now so proud. This is Riesling at its most alcoholic,
sometimes as much as 12 per cent alcohol, but it has real nerve and, in the Eden
Valley, a certain floral quality to it while Clare Valley Riesling is often more
lime-scented. JANCIS ROBINSON
This offer shines a light
on one of the world's truly noble varieties; Riesling. Unlike cabernet,
merlot or the like, this is a variety that can only successfully be grown in a
handful of areas around the globe; not too hot, not too cold and preferably in
mean soils with high percentages of minerals. In the cellar it's about letting
the variety speak and giving voice to these unique terroirs in which it's grown.
In this way the variety is the great communicator and chameleon of the wine
world; taking on the attributes of where it's grown and transferring them to the
glass. On top of all this, it's pure and unadulterated character makes it one of
the most enjoyable drinks in the world. PRINCE WINE
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