Wines are governed more by the DNA of each vineyard and then sculpted by winemakers’ decisions. NEAL MARTIN, Vinous
2017 – A Very Fine to Excellent Classically Styled White Burgundy Vintage… In particular many 2017 display a wonderfully refreshing salinity which only serves to enhance their appeal. BURGHOUND
In terms of quality, let me briefly concur with Tanzer regarding the quality of the 2017 whites. My sample size is smaller than his, yet there are some quite brilliant whites that, many growers are beginning to opine, equal or even surpass the haloed 2014s.
The 2017 reds are very good, often excellent, and from time to time, bloody awesome…. The growing season did not leave such a heavy imprimatur upon the wines as others, including 2015 and 2016. Wines are governed more by the DNA of each vineyard and then sculpted by winemakers’ decisions. NEAL MARTIN, Vinous
The second instalment of our Burgundy offers highlighting the 2017 vintage is here. From what Michael and I tasted there earlier this year and what we have seen arrive in Oz so far there is a lot to love about the year. In fact the more I taste now the more enamoured I become with the wines. Supple reds that are full of energy and are wonderfully transparent with bright profiles and alluring aromatics. The kinds of wines that you just want to drink, it’s a year that I think we will all look back on fondly when we start to open and drink these wines.
As to the whites my opinion remains the same as it did when tasting there: this is an outstanding white vintage and one that should be on the radar of everyone who drinks white Burgs. Intensely mineral, wonderfully bright and energetic with a degree of inner stuffing that makes the best of them utterly thrilling but perhaps a touch more accessible than say the 14s. I love 17 whites.
This instalment of our Burg offerings is quite special, it includes the newly arrived Faiveley wines. I know I have been harping on about this for a few years now but you really need to buy Faiveley (if you don’t already) they are on fire these days and the current offerings deliver everything you want in spades and they remain affordable when compared to many others.
Burguet is back, we offered these out briefly when they first arrived but I really want to draw your attention to their 17s as they capture both the beauty of the vintage and also the depth of luscious fruit that is part of the stamp of the domaine. They are, as a bracket, lovely.
We have also included the wines of cult producer Domaine Fourrier. These are available in minuscule quantities and as sought after as they are I don’t imagine they will last long.
For the whites there is the wonderfully precise wines of Matrot, another producer I am constantly trying to get everyone to drink more of. For those unfamiliar with the Meursault centric domaine I strongly suggest you give them a try. They stand out for their unencumbered and transparent expressions that sing the imprint of their various sites. Great wines.
Last but far from least are the wines of Bernard Moreau. In recent times his wines have shot right to the top of the tree amongst Chassagne producers. They are usually powerfully built with superb balance and plenty of solidsy nuance to add depth and nuance. There isn’t much and they have a rabid following here in Oz and elsewhere around the world. Don’t miss them if you can.
It is a star studded line up of producers on offer and there should be something here for any fan to love.
“Focused and direct and very good for the price.” That’s the Bourgogne Blanc. It’s red counterpart is an “excellent example of generic burgundy – has lively fruit, fine tannins and unexpected length, all at a good price.” Those particular notes from Jancis Robinson’s faithful sidekick Julia Harding MW tell part of the story. We were unashamedly, and somewhat unhopefully, searching for that ever-elusive holy grail: great-value burgundy.
But as we say, just part of the story. We were striving to find Meursault. Not the village but the essence – flavour, gunflint, silk and seduction. And, yes, we wanted more. We yearned for brilliance. And that’s what we found, as Burghound’s evocation of the Perrières attests: “Like several of the wines in the range in 2014 this is impressively dense with a focused power to the chiselled medium weight flavours that also coat the palate with sap, all wrapped in a classy, dry and hugely long finale. This is pretty much textbook Perrières that should amply reward extended cellaring. Bravo!”
Bravo indeed! Domaine Matrot is a sixth-generation family estate with exceptional holdings in the Côte de Beaune, notably six hectares of village-designated plots in their home commune, plus four hectares of premier cru vineyards in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. PATRICK WALSH
A more elegant and distinctly cooler nose offers up airy notes of essence of apple, spiced pear, floral and mineral reduction aromas. The racy, intense and overtly stony middle weight flavors possess excellent delineation that carries over to the markedly saline-inflected, refreshing and very dry finale. I would add that this too should repay a decade’s worth of cellaring. “Outstanding” BURGHOUND
The exceptionally rich medium weight plus flavors possess excellent volume and mid-palate density while delivering fine length and notably better depth on the bitter lemon zest-inflected finish. This lush effort should both drink well young and repay up to a decade of cellaring. “Outstanding” BURGHOUND
This small family-run domaine continues to be one of the most exciting addresses in the Cote de Beaune. From top to bottom, this is an impressive range. ANTONIO GALLONI
In recent years this domaine has shot to the very top of the tree for its whites. Today this 14ha domaine is run by brothers Alex and Benoit with Benoit in charge of the vineyards and Alex heading up the winery team. Here the elevage is quite simple with the wines seeing only minimal lees stirring and, in general, no more than 30% new wood for the 1ers and GCs. His most prestigious holdings are in Chevalier and Batard however his 1er Les Grandes Ruchottes usually performs at or near GC level. ROSCOE
Readers will already be aware that I revere Alex Moreau as one of the best winemakers in Chassagne-Montrachet, and it is pleasing to see that his reputation is increasing each year—from the United States to London to Hong Kong. This was a superb set of wines from Alex. NEAL MARTIN
4 BOTTLE LIMIT
A pungent and less elegant array offers up notes of resin, rosemary oil and freshly sliced apple. Once again there is an attractive vibrancy to the nicely delineated and solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a citrusy, saline and saliva-inducing finish. Good stuff for its level and note that there is sufficient structure such that this should age well over the next 5 to 8 years. “Outstanding” BURGHOUND
4 BOTTLE LIMIT
Once again the nose is cool and pure with its airy nuances of white orchard fruit, citrus blossom and a hint of herbal tea. The unusually refined middle weight flavors possess a lovely sense of energy while exhibiting fine focus on the gorgeously textured and sneaky long finale. It’s unusual to find examples of Maltroie that are quite this refined. BURGHOUND
1 BOTTLE LIMIT
As it sometimes is, the wonderfully elegant nose is restrained to the point of being almost mute and it requires aggressive swirling to finally liberate the mostly floral, citrus and white-fleshed fruit scents. There is plenty of the hallmark minerality to the big, powerful and almost painfully intense broad-shouldered flavors that deliver superb length on the impeccably well-balanced, explosive and bone dry finish that also displays a hint of quinine character. Despite all of the size, weight and intensity, this is quite classy, indeed the word silky comes to mind. (95) BURGHOUND
Domaine Faiveley is one of the biggest domaines (115ha) in Burgundy and, many would argue, one of the best.
The change of generation, enhanced by the arrival of Bernard Hervet as Managing Director, is clear warning of the intention to dynamise the business. The most obvious change though is in the barrel cellar where the previous supplier has been dropped and replaced with Francois Frères, Taransaud and three other coopers. Old style Faiveley wines could be massively tannic at the expense of the fruit. From 2007 the wines are much fresher and fruitier, yet still with real intensity.
Many of Faiveley’s top wines are hand bottled with no filtration. This in turn results in clean, opulent wines that often show Pinot Noir at its best. Their concentration and richness are rarely equalled. JASPER MORRIS MW
With a total of 115 hectares under vine Faiveley is one of the largest land owners in the Cote and, when combined with their impressive negociant business, they are a force to be reckoned with in Burgundy. More importantly, in recent years we have seen a phenomenal return to form from this hallowed estate. Under the watchful eye of managing director Bernard Hervet the wines are now some of the region’s finest and the emphasis is now on less extracted but, more pure and terroir-driven wines. ROSCOE
An earthy mix is composed by both red and dark pinot fruit along with a hint of humus. The vibrant, detailed and utterly delicious middle weight flavors exude a refreshing salinity on the lightly structured, balanced and lingering finale. This is really very good and would make a great choice for a “serious” all-around house red. “Outstanding, Top Value” BURGHOUND
This is actually aromatically similar to the Framboisière with just a touch more elegance. By contrast there is more volume and power to the rich and well-detailed medium weight flavors that offer both more depth and persistence on the somewhat more structured finale. This mineral and earth-inflected effort also offers very fine quality and is worth considering. “Outstanding, Top Value” BURGHOUND
Eric and Jean-Luc Burguet continue to put their own personal touches on the wines at their family’s domaine. A focus on biodynamic farming, gentler winemaking and lower amounts of new oak are all among the recent developments at this small cellar in the heart of Gevrey. ANTONIO GALLONI
For those that are not familiar with the Domaine, it is one of the most consistent in Burgundy. BURGHOUND
The 2017 Bourgogne Les Pince Vin is pliant, silky and absolutely delicious. Perfumed and inviting, with lovely purity and terrific balance, the Burguet Bourgogne is everything a wine at this level should be. ANTONIO GALLONI
A softly oaked nose consists of slightly cooler aromas of red currant, newly turned earth, humus and a whiff of the sauvage. There is a bit more volume and mid-palate concentration to the more mineral-inflected flavors that deliver much better depth and persistence on the balanced finale. This is a very good Gevrey villages that is well worth considering. “Outstanding, Top Value” BURGHOUND
The Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes, the top village wine here, is terrific. Rose petal, lavender, spice and a core of red/purplish berry fruit all resonate on the palate. Aromatically intense and persistent, with tons of class, the Favorites is shaping up to be a winner from brothers Eric and Jean-Luc Burguet. ANTONIO GALLONI
have long been an admirer of the Fourrier wines and particularly so for their purity of expression and overall quality. As the scores and commentaries will confirm, 2017 will do nothing to change my point of view. BURGHOUND
I asked Fourrier for his overall impression of the 2017s. “There is an unexpected depth to the vintage,” he answered. “I can see a link in terms of style and personality with 2002.”
This is now quite a large tasting, almost equally split between Domaine Fourrier and Jean-Marie Fourrier, the latter his négociant arm that includes a number of prestigious vineyards. It never ceases to surprise me that Fourrier is not a household name in his own country, whereas overseas he is one of the most respected winemakers. Where does this domestic indifference come from? Certainly not the wines. The 2017s are splendid. There are often aromatically quite plush and extrovert, occasionally reminiscent of Christophe Perrot-Minot’s wines in Morey-Saint-Denis. Fourrier has a knack of accentuating the fruit, perhaps something he picked up when working as an intern for Henri Jayer. This year I have a slight preference for his Clos Saint-Jacques over his solitary domaine Grand Cru, the Griotte-Chambertin. There is plenty to seek out beyond these two, not least the excellent Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers and both Gevrey Les Champeaux and Charbaudes. NEAL MARTIN, Vinous
In 1994, having previously done six month internships with Henry Jayer and Domaine Drouhin, Oregon, either side of military service, Jean-Marie Fourrier took over the domaine from his father Jean-Claude who had been working since the age of fourteen, on the death of his own father in 1961. Jean-Marie had his own views on how best to run the vineyards and make the wine, and his own markets to create. He is assisted by his sister Isabelle, in the vineyards, and by his English wife Vicki.
In general though he is lucky enough to be working with very old vines, mostly planted between the two World Wars, and thus only with local genetic material and not modern clones.
Fourrier does not fit into any specific camp of vignerons. He is not biodynamic though his approach shares much with the more sensitive protagonists of that philosophy. You have to get it right in the vineyard, which means being there all the time, and understanding equilibrium. Yields are restricted through pruning, debudding and careful management of vigour – he is not a fan of green harvesting, nor for that matter of leaf-plucking in July.
All the wines, whether village or grand cru, are matured in 20% new oak, the idea being to keep renewing the barrel cellar rather than to influence the fruit with any barrel flavours. The wines are not racked at all until transferred to tank about two months before bottling in the spring, eighteen months after harvest.
The results of all this meticulous work are very appealing wines, each of which shows the character of its provenance quite clearly. The wines are bright in colour but not exceptionally deep, with very pure red fruit flavours on the nose. The shape of the wine thereafter depends on the vineyard. Tannins are typically fine-boned except where the cru (Clos Solon, Combe aux Moines) dictates otherwise. JASPER MORRIS MW
2 BOTTLE LIMIT
A copiously spicy nose features notes of plum, violet and rose petal along with a hint of Asian-style tea. The velvety, vibrant and succulent middle weight flavors has enough dry extract to buffer the notably firmer tannic spine on the mildly austere and short finale. I suspect that the limited length is more due to the abundant gas than any lack of phenolic maturity. BURGHOUND
The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas offers attractive brambly red fruit on the nose with hints of pressed violet and iodine. The palate is sappy and quite intense on the entry, fine grip and depth considering this is a Village Cru with a touch of pencil lead towards the long finish. This comes recommended. NEAL MARTIN
|Burgundy 2017 Round Two||Reg. Price||Special||Order||Total|
|Matrot Meursault Perrieres 2017 1er||$285.00||$240.00|
|Matrot Puligny Combettes 2017 1er||$285.00||$240.00|
|Bernard Moreau Chassagne Montrachet 2017||$140.00||$119.00|
|Bernard Moreau Chassagne Maltroie 2017 1er||$220.00||$185.00|
|Bernard Moreau Chevalier Montrachet 2017||$1,495.00||$1,270.00|
|Faiveley Mercurey La Framboisiere 2017||$65.00||$55.00|
|Faiveley Mercurey Le Clos du Roy 2017 1er||$120.00||$100.00|
|Faiveley Chambolle Fuees 2017 1er||$365.00||$310.00|
|Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Bourgogne Rouge Les Pince Vin 2017||$85.00||$72.00|
|Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Bourgogne Rouge Les Pince Vin 2017 Half-Dozen||$510.00||$408.00|
|Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Bourgogne Rouge Les Pince Vin 2017 Dozen||$1,020.00||$780.00|
|Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites 2017||$150.00||$127.00|
|Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites 2017 Half-Dozen||$900.00||$720.00|
|Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites 2017 Dozen||$1,800.00||$1,320.00|
|JM Fourrier Vosne Aux Reas 2017||$270.00||$229.00|
|Name on Card|