This is one of the most legendary German wine estates, and its reputation is well-deserved. Not only are extraordinary wines made, but the wines have a well-established record of exceptional longevity. ROBERT PARKER, The World’s Greatest Wine Estates

The Prüms compare 2008 with 2004 and as such consider it a classic Spatlese year, with thankfully more wine in the Kabinett range that this estate has seen in many years. And if you remain unconvinced after tasting the present collection that residually sweet Kabinett Riesling is capable not only of reflecting the full potential of great Mosel vineyard sites but also capable of profundity and greatness, then you never will be. The range of Auslesen here this year, while small, is extraordinary.
DAVID SCHILDKNECHT, www.erobertparker.com

In late autumn of 2008, few producers thought that the vintage would develop as well as it did. While the general level of quality is not as homogeneous as 2007, the finest wines are of similar quality, if not better. Given the wines' moderate alcohols, lively acidities and refreshing style, I actually prefer many of them to their predecessors, at least today. 
JOEL B PAYNE, Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar

After a string of unusual vintages in which must weights skyrocketed, 2008 marked a pleasing return to normalcy on the Mosel. There were relatively few ausleses, much less the upward range of stickies, but that is not what the market is buying anyway—nor what you and I are drinking.

In less ostentatious vintages like 2007, many of the kabinetts, and even most of the spätleses, were declassified auslese; but 2008 was much more classical. Must weights were lower and acidities higher than in the previous vintages, a boon to consumers who are tired of the often overblown rieslings that the past few years have wrought.

The best values from the Mosel, however, continue to be found at the kabinett level, often from lesser-known producers who have done an excellent job in such a bright, classical vintage. In many cases there was only a marginal difference in ripeness between the kabinett and spätlese, with the estates choosing the predicate to apply to a given label based on their assessment of the wine’s inner character and what the market would bear. As my scores are generally conservative, a kabinett with 87 to 89 points is not only an excellent wine to drink, but given its lower residual sugar it tastes drier and can be more readily consumed in its youth. My highest mark for a kabinett in 2008 was 92 points for Joh. Jos. Prüm’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

Similarly, the most thirst-quenching spätleses are those with 89 to 91 points that need only moderate cellaring before hitting the right balance. Perhaps, as I wrote last year, I should be scoring these wines with 93, 94 or 95 points, as some of my colleagues do, but I have tried to avoid grade inflation.

In general, the ausleses, if they were made at all, were only marginally better than the spätleses from the same vineyard. Often, in fact, I thought the spätleses were more exciting. More is not necessarily better. Exceptions like those of Reinhold Haart, Fritz Haag, Clemens Busch, Joh. Jos. Prüm and Schloss Lieser only prove the rule.  JOEL B PAYNE

J. J. Prüm - Wehlen

Based in the village of Bernkastel-Wehlen on the middle Mosel, JJ Prüm has long been regarded as the greatest of all the German estates. So what makes JJ Prüm so special?

To begin with, they own and work some of the Mosel’s greatest riesling vineyards, all located in and around Wehlen. These include Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr and, most importantly, Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Named for the sundial positioned halfway up the steep south southwest slope which runs from 110 to 190 metres above sea level, the vineyard is matted with Devon blue slate shards. There is very little topsoil and, in this cool environment, the slate absorbs and radiates heat and solar energy, helping grapes ripen and, at the same time, contributing to the purity of fruit and minerality found in these wines.

The Prüms’ decision to pick as late as possible and to handle the fruit minimally contributes to both the style and longevity. Yields are kept low and the wines are fermented in stainless steel with natural yeasts and little pumping to protect the natural CO2. Interestingly, the Prüms are not afraid to use sulphur at bottling, as everything here is geared to making wines that will last.

Despite the late picking, these wines are distinguished by their elegance and purity of fruit. The aim is not to make intensely sweet, but ripe, concentrated and precise wines that are balanced.
PRINCE WINE STORE