If Brimoncourt’s DNA, as they say, is all about fun, relaxed elegance and a sense of lightness, then I get it. We tasted through Régence Brut NV (a low 7g of residual sugar, with an extremely light and fresh body), the Blanc de Blanc NV (my favourite; clean minerality and tension with Chardonnay from the northern Côte de Blancs) and the Extra Brut NV (2g of residual sugar and gorgeous delicacy to the structure). JANE ANSON, Decanter