With the full approval of Brokenwood, in 2008 the duo founded Charteris Wines at Bannockburn in Central Otago, leading to continuous ditch-hopping as they patiently built up the business, focusing on its best varieties: chardonnay, pinot noir and an outlier of riesling. With a 1000-case production it’s not paying too many bills yet, so PJ is building up a consultancy business, helped not only by his exceptionally broad career, but as a senior judge on the show circuit. No matter what the variety, what the style, PJ has already been there and done it. JAMES HALLIDAY