“Focused and direct and very good for the price.” That’s the Bourgogne Blanc. It’s red counterpart is an “excellent example of generic burgundy – has lively fruit, fine tannins and unexpected length, all at a good price.” Those particular notes from Jancis Robinson’s faithful sidekick Julia Harding MW tell part of the story. We were unashamedly, and somewhat unhopefully, searching for that ever-elusive holy grail: great-value burgundy.

But as we say, just part of the story. We were striving to find Meursault. Not the village but the essence – flavour, gunflint, silk and seduction. And, yes, we wanted more. We yearned for brilliance. And that’s what we found, as Burghound’s evocation of the Perrières attests: “Like several of the wines in the range in 2014 this is impressively dense with a focused power to the chiselled medium weight flavours that also coat the palate with sap, all wrapped in a classy, dry and hugely long finale. This is pretty much textbook Perrières that should amply reward extended cellaring. Bravo!”
Bravo indeed! Domaine Matrot is a sixth-generation family estate with exceptional holdings in the Côte de Beaune, notably six hectares of village-designated plots in their home commune, plus four hectares of premier cru vineyards in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. PATRICK WALSH