There are times when it’s clear you’ve come across a special producer. Where the combination of passion for the craft melds with real talent and an innate understanding of how to translate the variety and site into the bottle with transparency and complexity. This doesn’t happen that often which makes the occurrene more noteworthy when it does. Meeting and tasting John Hughes’ wines some years ago was one such happening and we have been enthusiastic advocates for this superb set of rieslings ever since. MICHAEL MCNAMARA