The ’standard’ Flametree cabernet merlot won last year’s Jimmy Watson Trophy and lo and behold, they have a higher grade cabernet (or at least higher-priced). I hope they stood up at the award ceremony and said, You call THAT a cabernet? THIS is a cabernet … And it is a far superior wine to the standard release. This is really good booze. It’s thick and chocolatey, pencilly and long. It has lots of velvety tannin and a curranty, earthen character that is ripe but not overtly sweet. Cabernet is such a superior grape to shiraz - you find yourself nodding smugly, knowingly, at yourself as you drink this. The Jimmy Watson Trophy was one thing … this wine is actually the goods. CAMPBELL MATTINSON