Bodegas Valdesil Godello Sobre Lias 2016

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
This particular white has improved out of sight in recent years. It is now made exclusively from Godello drawn from a selection of 30-40-year-old plots in Cacabelos, Valtuille and Villafranca del Bierzo; on river stones, sandy loam and some slate soils at 550 metres elevation. The wine was fermented with wild yeast in wooden foudre and raised for ten months on fine lees in two 4,000 litre oval wooden vats. Today, this fascinating, individual wine bears only a slight resemblance to the earlier releases. The ageing is longer and less reductive than its younger sibling (Brezo), which only seems to enhance the sense of smoky minerality (which reminds me of Savennières), a reflection of the slate and calcareous soil in which the vines are grown. It's a very complex and stimulating mountain white that is, by turns, grapefruity, fleshy, powdery and savoury. The finish throws up deep, earthy mineral notes, and a perfumed, mouthwatering length BIBENDUM