Julien Sunier Wild Soul Beaujolais Village 2017

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney

A 2,000-bottle cuvée produced from purchased organic grapes, the 2017 Beaujolais-Villages Wild Soul exhibits a spicy bouquet of raspberries, cassis and sweet soil. It’s medium to full-bodied, rich and chewy, with a dark, sapid core of fruit. A touch of dissolved carbon dioxide lends freshness but likely also amplifies the perception of tannin; Sunier noted that he retained more gas than usual to compensate for the wine’s comparatively low acidity. It’s a tasty, giving Beaujolais-Villages that will drink well out of the gates. WILLIAM KELLEY, erobertparker.com

Pur Jus is the label for his organic négociant wines. Sunier says he can sell his wines at a high enough price for the grower to be paid well. In 2017 (a dry year) the fruit came from Quincié at 450 m on blue stone. The 2018 vintage will be from Lantignié. Aged in egg-shaped tanks of 3,000 litres, also cement and steel tank. He’d like to use foudres but has no room at the moment. Bottled mid May 2018. 12,000 bottles, no added SO2.
Peppery dark-red fruit. Dusty rocky. Almost chalky in texture but very juicy and fresh. Dry vintage has given more power because there was less juice in the berries. Fine but very definite tannin. Extremely fresh and moreish. Tight and dusty on the finish. Some grip but the tannins are fine-boned. JULIA HARDING MW