Mount Mary Pinot Noir 2010 375ml

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
Beautiful limpid crimson; a fragrant, perfumed bouquet of red fruits leads into a glorious palate that effortlessly caresses the mouth with its display of red fruits in a silken web in no way dependant on oak, just the finest tannins. JAMES HALLIDAY

I went to a trade day in Sydney where Sam Middleton, winemaker, was pouring the wines for Mount Mary (though this wine was also tasted alongside the rest of 2012 releases at the Mike Bennie Tasting Facility). The 2010 wines are the first produced under his reign as senior winemaking figure at Mount Mary; but this is more about custodianship than revamp or asserting footprint, I gather. Legacies are important, seems the vibe.

Mea cupla, but I often overlook Mount Mary pinot noirs in lieu of Quintet or other vogue producers doing ‘exciting things’ in the Yarra with pinot noir. Such a rumble through the Yarra with 2010 pinot noir releases too – some great wines about.

Earthy aromas with graphite mineral lift, a touch of a reductive twang but not untoward in the slightest, then cherry and brambly fruit. Cool reserve. Slatternly in the palate; generous with slippery fruit, ripeness of fruit and glossy acidity. A dusting of cinnamon/clove spice and quince-like richness chimes in too. The wine is built for pleasure, generously tactile up-front in a monochromatic flow to mid-palate, and yet trims to a dart-like finish with dusty tannins. Composed and concentrated, a cellar-dweller style that shows fleshy impact now; for those seeking some amplitude in their pinot noir wine. Not overdone, just bringing potency and complexity of fruit to the fore. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front 2012