Benjamin Leroux Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2014

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney

(totally destemmed; one-third new oak): Good dark red. Highly aromatic nose dominated by clove oil and white pepper. A juicy, intense spice bomb on the palate, but youthfully imploded today and showing limited flesh. Wonderfully penetrating, electric wine with a slowly building, very long finish. Clos Saint-Denis is often deceptively narrow in the early going and then puts on weight with a decade in the bottle: I'd bet on this one to reward cellaring. STEPHEN TANZER

This is perhaps the most complex wine in the entire range and along with the Amoureuses perhaps the most refined as well as the silky middle weight flavors simply glide across the palate while delivering flat out superb length on the beautifully balanced finale, indeed this could aptly be described as Zen-like in its unmatched sense of harmony. While the supporting structure is firm this is already so pretty and en forme that it could actually be enjoyed on the younger side. BURGHOUND