Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco 2012

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
  • Essendon
I love tasting at Porro. The wines are always bang on (within the vintage context) and always true to their vineyard origins. The Lazzairasco is a case in point. This sub-plot of Lazzarito sits further down the valley and point directly south-west. The slightly heavier soils and the warmer more protected site means that the wine is always the most robust of the two main Crus (Santa Caterina being the other) showing more grunt and structural muscle on the back end. The 2012 is up-front and like most of Porro's wines is medium bodied. However, the sweet spice, balsamic, tobacco, mint and dried amaro herbs draw you into a palate that is far more layered and complex than one would have first thought. The underpinnings of mineral and well covered and ripe tannins provide a note of the serious and brooding which makes this wine the best of the bunch. PWS

The 2012 Barolo Vigna Lazzairasco opens with beguiling aromatics, but is much less expressive on the palate, where biting tannins clamp down on the fruit. Medium in body and classically austere, the 2012 is a wine for readers who can be patient. Of the three 2012s, the Lazzairasco is the wine that has suffered most from its recent bottling. GALLONI, vinous