Frankland Estate and JJ Prum Tasting 2019
One of Australia’s elite Riesling producers, Frankland Estate produces small quantities of vibrant, mineral-drenched wines. The wines age effortlessly, as numerous bottles with a decade or more on them have proven to me on numerous occasions. JOSH RAYNOLDS, Vinous
Visits to Great Southern and time spent with winemakers Hunter Smith and Brian Kent and viticulturist Elizabeth Smith have cemented my opinion Frankland Estate is one of Australia’s greatest wine producers with a thirst for excellence. Frankland Estate is to be revered and celebrated in equal measure. Quietly going about its work, it continues to delight and surprise. MIKE BENNIE
Few estates in the world can claim to have maintained the highest quality standards uninterrupted for half a century and more. Joh Jos Prüm, the most famous of the many Mosel wine estates bearing the Prüm name, is one estate that can. Since the early 1920’s its wines have been among Germany’s best, Rieslings with the Mosel’s vivacious aroma and racy elegance in its highest form. STUART PIGOTTS
The wines, whether a modest Kabinett or an opulent Beerenauslese, are the epitome of filigree elegance: light in body but intense in flavour, exquisitely balanced and precisely tuned, and capable of the most extra-ordinary longevity. With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the region, one might have supposed that J.J. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit. STEPHEN BROOKS, The Wines of Germany
What are the top three white wine varieties? Let me guess you got to two before you had to scratch your head and think about it for a sec. Chardonnay and Riesling and what is next? For the point of this tasting it really doesn’t matter anyway because it is all about Riesling, not just any Riesling either, two of the masters of the variety, Frankland Estate and Prum.
Both of these estates represent the pinnacle of their styles and regions and have become reference points for quality Riesling the world over. While the styles are very different, Prum produces off dry/lusciously sweet examples from the ludicrously steep slopes along the Mosel River. It is all about pure and vibrant expressions, wines where the interplay of sugar and acidity can dance along the palate, sugar giving the fruit an essence of youthfulness while the acidity keeps everything fresh and enlivening. Like a wonderful ballet playing out in your mouth.
The wines produced by Frankland Estate are chiselled and intense with a drive that can leave the palate quivering. As a mate and a man who knows these wines intimately told me recently (I told him I would plagiarise him but I don’t have the heart) the wines have changed in texture and the shape of the wines has changed, they are less gangly and angular today than they were say ten years or more ago. He believes that the tweaks in viticulture have allowed Hunter to have the confidence to extend the hang time which lengthens the time the fruit has to ripen and gain flavour and texture. I couldn’t agree more but I couldn’t have said it as eloquently as him. Whatever little changes they have made down there the wines have gone from one Australia’s best Riesling producer to top two for me.
The line up includes a swathe of Prum from the much heralded 2017 vintage at a few different sweetness levels and a bracket of the 2018 Frankland Estate wines. It is a wonderland of wine for Riesling nerds and basically anyone who likes a good glass of wine.
Roscoe and the team at PWS HQ