Jermann Tasting Sydney 2019 - One of the Geratest White Wine Producers of Italy / Pinot Grigio
In the ever-changing world of Italian wine, the list of top producers is fluid, however a few stalwarts continue to lead the way in the context of certain styles. One such legendary producer is Jermann who pioneered and remains the leader in Friuli. Silvio and his family remain as dedicated to their craft and the pursuit of excellence as they always have, and the results speak clearly of a thoughtful and focused approach to everything they do.
While the staples of their estate; the Grigio and Ribolla Gialla, remain reference points for their varieties it is the three top wines that their stellar reputation is founded upon. Each is uniquely special.
The Dreams Chardonnay is perhaps Italy’s top interpretation of the variety and while it has a certain international flare it is also distinctly Friulian. A wine built around texture and fruit presence with a track record for ageing gracefully.
Tunina is the quintessential Friulian blend that so many winemakers now try to emulate both at home and elsewhere. A blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit, it’s easy to get caught up in the list of varieties but that really is missing the point. Tunina is more than the sum of its parts and instead is an expression of place and a mastery of craft. Textural, pithy, poised and beguilingly aromatic Tunina is a benchmark in its style, a bar that other producers strive to achieve.
Capo Martino is the flagship of the estate and one of Italy’s most awarded wines with the 2016 once again claiming the top gong the Gambero Rosso White Wine of the Year. A blend of mostly Tocai Friulano with dollops of Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit it is a heady expression that retains a distinctly poised demeaner for a wine of such richness.
Every year these wines are eagerly awaited by those in the know and while many are drunk on or near release, I suggest a little patience, even an extra year in bottle can go a long way to showing you their potential.
Pinot Grigio is the Italian name for Pinot Gris and is planted throughout North Eastern Italy in the regions of Veneto, Alto Aldige and Friuli. In the latter two regions it produces small quantities of high quality wine with the most complex examples from Friuli having an aromatic profile of white blossoms, white stone fruits and terrific texture and mouthfeel. Examples from Alto Aldige are renowned for their lighter weight and purity of aromatics. The majority of Pinot Grigio produced in Italy comes from the plains surrounding the Veneto, where it is cropped at higher levels and sold as bulk wine, resulting in neutral, crisp everyday drinking white table wines. The variety has seen increased plantings in Australia, predominantly in the King Valley and Mornington Peninsula. The term Pinot Grigio often appears on Australian wine labels to indicate a lighter, fresher Italian style wine, whereas Pinot Gris often, but not always, is used to denote a richer style often with a little residual sugar.
The Oxford Companion to Wine, (ed) Jancis Robinson
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