Leroy Bourgogne Double 2018
A fervent defender of terroir – the single most essential concept that defines Burgundy – and a staunch believer in principles of biodynamics, Lalou Bize-Leroy remains one of the most iconic figures in wine. Everything is amped up; the Bize-Leroy style, site signatures and vintage are all remarkably vivid…. Although I don’t share all of her views, tasting with Lalou Bize-Leroy is always a fascinating experience, as everything she does is informed by the deepest and most total conviction imaginable. There is no more ardent exponent of the most fundamental of all Burgundian values – the concept of terroir – than Lalou Bize-Leroy. ANTONIO GALLONI
After almost 20 years of visiting the domaine, I am rarely surprised by the typically stupendous quality. It’s not so much that the wines are powerhouses of exceptional concentration, so much as they are just so harmonious and seamless that you can’t help but admire their grace and inner beauty. If you can find them, and then afford them, don’t miss them. BURGHOUND
Lalou-Bize Leroy is perhaps the greatest winemaker alive today in Burgundy. Certainly you could build a pretty compelling case to argue for that if you were so inclined, which I am. Now, these are Bourgogne level wines and if you have checked out the price already you probably think we are crazy. We are not! Lalou does not produce entry level wines in the way other estates do. Even at the Bourgogne designation her wines show an almost uncanny depth, concentration, volume and power due in part to the frighteningly low yields she demands from any site she works with. Her gift with elevage is legendary and somehow she draws out every possible skerrick of intensity and flavour from the juice she raises. Her reds are sublime and she is among the top few producers of white as well. If any vigneron on the Cote could be said to have the midas touch it is her.
One more point to raise here concerns the vintages. Interestingly, according to her importer, Lalou decided to release the 2014 Rouge after her 2015 believing the 14 vintage was a better wine. That kind of runs along similar lines to my thinking, I am a huge rap for 2014. As to 2016, for those not yet familiar with the vintage it was particularly strong for whites but sadly also the lowest yields in memory.
There really isn’t much of these to go around. They are rarely reviewed and always scarce but eagerly gobbled up by collectors and enthusiasts alike so get in early to avoid missing out. Having tasted both myself I can attest to the quality, the white is a powerful, rich and broad shouldered example while the red has super depth and muscularity for a wine of this designation. They are a great introduction in to the style. This is a rare chance to drink wine from one of the greatest producers on earth.