Marco Lubiana Pinot Noir 2018
Star quality. Welcome second-generation Tasmanian vigneron Marco Lubiana who is just releasing his debut wines from 2018. A powerful, complex Chardonnay and a stunning Vosne-like Pinot Noir. NICK STOCK
I don’t know if it’s in the blood or, to be honest, if Marco got lucky this vintage but this is one of the best “first releases” I have seen from a young winemaker in a long time. After a quick virtual chat with him I don’t actually think luck played any part in the result to be honest. I get the impression Marco is very serious about what he is doing.
Who is this guy? Maybe you know his folks, Steve and Monique Lubiana of Stefano Lubiana? Marco’s family were pioneers of the Tasmanian wine scene and have set the trend for decades now. Their estate has continued to evolve and develop along with their understanding of the region and their vineyards and continues to be one of the Apple Isle’s great wine treasures.
Marco grew up at the winery and in the vineyards where he seems to have picked up a thing or two from his old man along the way. At some stage he took off to study wine making at Adelaide Uni and has returned home to help at the family estate but also to forge his own path. It isn’t an uncommon story, in fact there are loads of them out there. Where this differs is that the wine Marco has produced has instantly moved him out of his old man’s rather long shadow and set him up as a producer to watch in his own right.
The quality of his first release Pinot is outstanding. A beautifully shaped wine of gorgeous lines and lush fruit. There is a seriousness to it but more than that there is a sensual, lip smacking, seductive essence of Pinot that just flows so effortlessly across the palate that you just want to drink it. I really dislike making comparisons between wines grown here, I think we should be proud of the terroir we have and the imprint it leaves on a wine, but I couldn’t help myself. It reminded me of a Pinot grown on distant shores where the variety has grown for considerably longer than it has in Tasmania. Sexy juice.
As with every new wine we taste we need to put some context around it, winemaking, vineyard, that kind of thing. To cut straight to the chase I went straight to the source and asked Marco a few pertinent questions, the answers of which can be found here, if you are interested. The real story though is that this is a gorgeous Pinot from some of the oldest vines in the Huon Valley.