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Yarra valley

Part of the Port Philip zone which surrounds Melbourne, the Yarra Valley is located an hour outside Melbourne and is one of the most important fine wine growing regions in Australia. The Yarra Valley’s viticultural history extends back to 1838 when the Ryrie Brothers planted the first vineyards at what is now Yering Station, with the first vintage produced in 1845 by the legendary James Dardel. In 1863 Hubert de Castella established St Huberts Vineyards and Guillaume de Pury established Yeringberg, bringing the total area under vine to 430 acres. This trend continued with the establishment of Yeringa with David Mitchell planting vineyards at Stringybark Creek increasing the area under vine to 1000 acres. This period of growth was followed by a series of poor vintages and tough economic conditions which saw vineyard production completely cease by 1937.

The Yarra Valley’s modern renaissance began when Reg Egan planted Wantirna Estate in 1963 and was followed in the late 1960s and early 1970s by Mount Mary, Yeringberg, Yarra Yering, St Huberts, Seville Estate, Yarra Burn, Chateaux Yeringa (now de Bortoli) and others, From the this period through to the late 1990’s investment and expansion continued, with the majority of wineries small, quality conscious, boutique producers of top quality wine which fetched appropriate prices. The latter period of the 1990’s saw large scale corporate investment, with Moet & Chandon establishing Domaine Chandon alongside acquisitions by Mildara Blass, McWilliams, Hardys and others.

The Yarra Valley is a diverse and cool climate region with a lower average growing temperature than both Bordeaux and Burgundy, the principle white variety is Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, while the red varieties that the region is renowned for are Cabernet Sauvignon (with associated Bordeaux varieties of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) which helped put the Yarra Valley on the map followed by Pinot Noir which arrived en masse in the 1980s and followed more recently by Shiraz (which is sometimes blended with Viognier). Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are also cultivated as sparkling base. Interestingly, vineyards planted in the cool, upper Yarra Valley for the production of sparkling wine are now being used for table wines. Whether it’s global warming or just that recent vintages have been warmer, there is little doubt that the Upper Yarra including places such as Hoddles Creek and other sub-districts such as Woori Yallock have really come into their own over the last 5-10 years. 

Chardonnay styles vary across winemakers and site, with a distinctive aromatic profile of melon and fig in warmer sites and white peach and grapefruit from cooler vineyards. Both styles are characterised by good acidity. Outstanding producers include Oakridge, Toolangi, Coldstream Hills, de Bortoli, Giant Steps, Mac Forbes and Hoddles Creek. The Yarra Valley is one of the first Australian regions to establish Pinot Noir of high regard, with notes of plum, cherry and strawberry and a characteristic underlying sappy acidity and fine soft tannins. Outstanding producers include de Bortoli, Coldstream Hills, Giant Steps and Mount Mary and Wedgetail. Yarra Valley Cabernet is almost always blended with traditional Bordeaux varieties and is characterised as a medium bodied wine, elegant, with notes of cassis, hay, tobacco leaf, fine silky tannins and remarkable longevity. Outstanding producers include Mount Mary, Yarra Yarra, Yeringberg, Wantirna Estate. Shiraz is less prevalent in the Yarra Valley and highly dependent on vineyard location favouring warmer growing conditions. Increasingly producers are following the Northern Rhone Cote Rotie blend by adding small quantities of Viognier for added colour and aromatic lift. Classic Yarra Valley Shiraz is almost always of a cool climate style with notes of pepper, black cherry and spice with fine silky tannins. Outstanding producers include Yering Station, de Bortoli, Jamsheed, Yarra Yarra and recently Serrat.

Sources:
The Oxford Companion to Wine, (ed) Jancis Robinson
James Hallidays Wine Atlas of Australian, James Halliday

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  1. Applecross Pinot Noir 2019
    Applecross Pinot Noir 2019
    A light garnet hue, beguiling and belying the flavours here. A whiff of autumnal scents from damp leaves to wood mushrooms and a scattering of Middle Eastern spices. There's freshness throughout but there's certainly structure, though no new oak encumbering. It has a neat, sinewy streak, with tannins stretching across the palate, ending with a tangy chinotto, blood orange flavour and a bright acid line. Mouth-watering. (95) JANE FAULKNER, James Halliday’s Wine Companion
    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    506
    Special Price $45.00 Regular Price $52.00 As low as $41.50
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  4. Applecross Pinot Noir 2018
    Applecross Pinot Noir 2018
    The Applecross wines are always lovely… it has to be said, in the overall scheme, they represent outstanding value. These are wines to latch onto.
    This 2018 Pinot is dry and twiggy but the fruit is there, all juicy and jaunty, with cranberry aspects in with the red cherry, and a sheet of spice-studded tannin extending from the mid-palate onwards. There's a touch of Aussie Bush Spice to the highlights here but the shadows are alive with complex flavour. This is one of those lighter styles of pinot that the Yarra does so well. Yes. This is good. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front

    Once again this is a ripper. I love the Chard but it is really hard to go past this. Fragrant, spicy, red fruited and enticing. I love the sense of appeal here, it's a Pinot I want to smell and taste as it unfurls in the glass. It's graceful and poised in its buoyant delivery of almost juicy, red berry fruit that is tinged by faint elements of spice and underbrush all  encompassed with super fine, filigreed tannins that stop it from wandering in to the realms of quaffable, which is a shame really, the wine is so pleasurable now that I just want to drink it with abandon but there is a serious aspect to it that keeps me intrigued and focused. Wonderful. Gorgeous stuff. ROSCOE
    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    506
    $50.00 As low as $45.00
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  7. Luna Martinborough Blue Rock Pinot Noir 2018
    Luna Martinborough Blue Rock Pinot Noir 2018

    A relatively new label, the foundations of Luna Estate are two excellent vineyard sites – Eclipse, on the famed Martinborough Terraces, and Blue Rock, on Dry River Road, south of the Martinborough village. Martinborough is a region which excites us as New Zealand’s best for complex and varietal Pinot Noir, also raising excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

    Luna’s ethos is sustainable vineyard practices, and as minimal handling in the winery as possible, under the guidance of chief winemaker Joel Watson, whose previous work has included several vintages with the highly esteemed Curly Flat in Victoria’s Macedon Ranges.

    Presently with 25 hectares producing, a significant replanting program to bring 80% of production to Pinot Noir will eventually see the estate sitting around 44 hectares between the two sites. The single vineyard wines show the sites’ contrasts beautifully. PWS

    Dried rose and orange peel, a bit of truffle and spice, cherry and strawberry. Medium-bodied, fine chalky grip, all the strawberries dusted with spice lends a bit of prettiness, though there’s bass here too, the finish autumnal, savoury and spicy. It’s sure of itself, and will likely roll out with more time in bottle. GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

    2018
    Pinot noir
    New Zealand
    435
    $58.00 As low as $52.20
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  16. Giant Steps Fatal Shore Coal River Pinot Noir 2020
    Giant Steps Fatal Shore Coal River Pinot Noir 2020

    The Tasmanian excursion for Giant Steps. Coal River Valley site. Whole bunch portion for one clone of the two used here.

    Taut and tense, dry and edgy. Sour cherry, tart cranberry drink characters, a bit of game meat, clove, meat drippings, paprika too with graphite notes in the mix. The tannin of paprika powder here too. Brooding but also kind of light too. Grippy and with this pleasing sour-bitter note through it all. Strict pinot, done well. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front

    2020
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    506
    $77.00 As low as $69.30
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  18. Toolangi Estate Block E Pinot Noir 2019
    Toolangi Estate Block E Pinot Noir 2019

    Sourced from 17 year old vines, 60% whole bunch, and 30% new oak. Kaspar Hermann at the controls now. Ambitious pricing, perhaps.

    Plenty of spice, strawberry, blood orange, brown bread and sort of demerara sugar thing happening too. It’s medium-bodied, ripe strawberry and spice, a sappy and stalky coolness, fresh acidity, fine emery tannin, and good crunch and energy on the finish, along with some sugar dusted rhubarb. Good wine, perhaps not the deepest and most complex of Pinot Noir, but nice to drink. GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    506
    $83.00 As low as $74.70
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  19. Wantirna Estate Lily Pinot Noir 2018
    Wantirna Estate Lily Pinot Noir 2018

    Cherry cola, creamy spicy oak, dried mint. Medium bodied, lovely fine silty tannin provides traction, even acidity, poached spiced strawberries, shines on the finish with a pretty perfume and dried herb, and carries long. It's a light wine of substance, if that makes sense. Easy to like. (93) GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

    The vineyard has three distinct blocks of pinot noir and these are all hand harvested separately. Despite the vineyard area being only ten acres in total, the different blocks each deliver quite unique characters and often there is up to 2 weeks difference in the harvest dates. The mature block - with vines dating back to the early 1970s, gives the wine its savoury tones and fine tannins. The Front block fruit is spicy whilst the Fruit Tree block is generously fruity. Each component adds complexity when blended together, making the style of pinot noir that Wantirna Estate is known for. WANTIRNA

    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    506
    $90.00 As low as $81.00
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  20. Gembrook J.K.M Pinot Noir 2018
    Gembrook J.K.M Pinot Noir 2018

    One third new oak, and one third whole bunch, as opposed to the I.J.M which was only old oak. Strawberries, juicy sweet and poached, plenty of exotic spice and green herb top notes. It’s light and sweetly red fruited, but autumnal too, and sappy and savoury, rhubarb and cinnamon, fine tannin, dry and dusty/spicy/herbal to close, with good length. Good wine here, and of typical Gembrook Hill style. (94) GARY WALSH, Winefront

    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    506
    $94.00 As low as $84.60
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  22. Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2018
    Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2018

    Aromas of red cherries, cedar, dry brown spices, forest berries and wood, as well as rose-like perfume. It opens and aromatically enriches with some air. The palate has all the trademark layering of smooth tannins and a smoothly ripe ball of fresh red cherries. Assertive drive to the finish. (96) NICK STOCK, jamessuckling.com

    35% new oak and 35% whole bunch.
    Plum and cherry, camphor, exotic spice and liquorice, a little dried rose perfume in the mix too. Bright and intense. Medium-bodied, plenty of flavour, rich dark fruit with orange peel and spice, firm almost tea-like tannin, moving to ripe strawberries with pepper on a long perfumed, slightly bitter radicchio finish. I like this bit of extra tannin activity in 2018. Good stuff. (95) GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

    2018
    Pinot noir
    New Zealand
    435
    $115.00 As low as $103.50
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  23. Ata Rangi McCrone Pinot Noir 2018
    Ata Rangi McCrone Pinot Noir 2018

    Vibrant, high-energy pinot noir with floral, violet, cherry, dried herb, brambles and spicy-oak flavours. An elegant rather than blockbuster wine with the sort of structure and fruit intensity that suggests good ageing potential. BOB CAMPBELL MW

    Beautifully aromatic with fresh red berry fruit and floral dried petal notes. The palate is a little reticent at first, but with time, reveals concentrated flavours wrapped up in exquisite, finely grained and carefully judged tannins. Terrific drive and length. Cellar for 2 - 9 years. (97) GOURMET TRAVELLER WINE

    2018
    Pinot noir
    New Zealand
    435
    Special Price $115.00 Regular Price $130.00 As low as $105.00
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  24. Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2019
    Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2019

    A complex wine from the outset with gently reductive notes and modern oak spice threading into fresh cherry, spiced bread, rose, forest wood and blood orange, as well as darker cherry notes. The palate tells the full story. This displays real power and definition with clear-cut and powerful tannins. The intensity of the red-cherry fruit is impressive and the way it occupies the finish with length and uplift is the thing that defines great pinot noir per se. Strong vintage. (98) NICK STOCK, jamessuckling.com

    Elegant, seamless pinot noir with fragrant, floral, red rose, dark cherry, anise, spice and restrained savoury and fresh herb characters. It's a complex medley of appealing flavours supported by an ethereal texture and a lingering finish. A surprisingly accessible wine from an excellent vintage. Should develop well with bottle age. (98) BOB CAMPBELL MW

    2019
    Pinot noir
    New Zealand
    435
    $125.00 As low as $112.50
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  26. Dry River Pinot Noir 2018
    Dry River Pinot Noir 2018
    One of the most charming and gentle expressions of Martinborough Pinot Noir you'll find, with its depth of fruit akin to holding a heavy ball in the palm of your hand, such is its midpalate weight. There's an abundance of tannins, but they are as resolved as tannins get, lightly coating the palate. The fruit was picked a little earlier than usual due to the warmth of the season in a bid to preserve tension and also keep the alcohol level at a very reasonable 13%. The acidity provides freshness and precision, giving the wine length and shape. While primary fruit is not front and center, on the finish it blossoms, offering cherries, cinnamon and clove spice. A very complete wine. (97)  REBBECA GIBBS, Vinous

    2017
    Pinot noir
    New Zealand
    435
    $160.00 As low as $144.00
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