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Burgundy



The soils and vineyards of Burgundy have been very well defined thanks to the studious Monks a few hundred years ago - and the swathe of others who have picked up the baton since.

The Golden Slope (Cote D'or) is divided into two; the Cote du Nuit to the north and the Cote de Beaune to the south. Pinot noir dominates the Cote du Nuit as it loves the limestone nature of the soils and Chardonnay thrives in the heavier calcareous marl soils on the Cote de Beaune.

The essence of Burgundy comes down to the place where the vines are grown. The more definitive you can be (e.g. a single vineyard like Grand Cru or Premier Cru) then the higher the price you'll pay. A village wine, which will most likely be a blend of vineyards from within the village won't be as expensive as its origins are a little broader.

To the north, Chablis is an outpost. Lying closer to Champagne than the Cote d'Or, its marine fossil laden soils (Kimmeridgian clay) make scintillating renditions of chardonnay which age beautifully.
To the south the Cote Chalonnais, Maconnais and Beaujolais make wines that are easier on the pocket. There's some great value to be had here. A few different grapes are added to the mix including Gamay and Aligoté (as well as pinot noir and chardonnay).

Red or White?
Both.

Grapes
White: Chardonnay, Aligote
Red: Pinot Noir, Gamay

Styles
The purity of chardonnay is on full display in a bottle of Chablis. Chiselled and tightly wound this is a crisp and salivating white. White Burgundy tends towards a riper heart but with spicy oak support.

Favourite Producers
Gerard Raphet, Jean-Marc Pillot, Armand Rousseau, Domaine Romanee Conti, Benjamin Leroux, Domaine Bellene, JF Mugnier, Buisson Battault, Domaine Roulot, Arnaud Ente, Francois Carillon, Francois Raveneau, Christophe Chablis, Chantemerle Chablis,

 

Margaret river

Maritime Margaret River is a beautiful mixing pot of nature, surf and wine. It’s a rare place in that it produces some of Australia’s most stylish and prized Chardonnays as well as some of our most elegant and complex Cabernets. On paper it sounds like a lovechild between Bordeaux and Burgundy, but in reality it’s not.

A few hours south of Perth, Margaret River is home to some of Australia’s greatest wineries – Cullen, Vasse Felix, Leeuwin, Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle. In terms of newcomers, we take our hats off to Nocturne, Dormilona and Flametree.

Chardonnay, semillion and sauvignon blanc lead the charge on the white grapes. Oak is favoured in the premium styles which complements a rich core of nectarines, peaches and orchard fruits.  For reds, cabernet is the chosen one, and is often blended with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. These red blends personify elegance and ageability.

 

The wines of Margaret River fly the flag for modern Australian wines, a beautiful balance of fruit and workmanship.

------------


The Margaret River wine region (some 240km south of Perth) is the most important region, alon with the Great Southern in Western Australia. Its viticultural history began in the nineteenth century on a very small scale when the grandfather of Dr Kevin Cullen, founder of Cullen Wines established vineyards at Bunbury in 1890, though the vineyard site has now been absorbed by Bunburys unban suburbs. Contemporary Margaret river viticulture began in 1967 when Perth cardiologist Tom Cullity - inspired by papers written by John Gladstones from the University of WA which suggested Margaret River was a good place to grow grapes - planted the first commercial vineyard at Vasse Felix.  Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle and Cullen soon followed and since then Margaret River has grown to become regarded as one of Australia's, and the world's great wine-producing regions and today there are nearly 5,500 hectares under vine and over 120 wine producers in the region.

Though warm, Margaret River's proximity to the Indian Ocean provides a moderating effect ensuring a temperate dry climate which is often likened to Bordeaux, in part due to the moderating influence of its proximity to the ocean and also due to the marked similarities between the average growing tempreture in Margaret River and Bordeaux in a dry vintage. These warm even growing conditions allow for the cultivation of a number of diverse grape varieties, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (often blended together) does well here, producing fresh textural white wines best condumed in their youth. However, the real heroes are the world class Chardonnays (headed by Leeuwin Estate and Cullen) and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends, Cullen and Moss Wood, that have done much to propel both the region and it's star performers on the world stage.  Vasse Felix, Voyager Estate, Cullen, Moss Wood, Lenton Brae, Pierro, Fraser Gallop and Woodlands are just some of the benchmark producers.

Sources:
The Wine Atlas of Australia, James Halliday



Jura

JURA

The Jura is a world unto itself. It's a melting pot of curious whites and reds, many you've probably never heard about. A narrow valley wedged between Burgundy and Switzerland, this is countryside filled with limestone cliffs and hillocks upon which the best vines are planted. These wines are tangy, complex, pure and delicious.

Red or White?
Both. The whites provide a gamut of styles from the fresh and crisp Savagnin and chardonnays topped up (ouillé), to the oxidative, rich and nutty styles left purposely under-filled to encourage flor development. Minerality is a recurrent theme, threading the whites together. The reds can be a little paler in colour but don't be fooled as they carry a lot of flavour. 

Grapes
Savagnin, Chardonnay,
Ploussard (or Poulsard), Trousseau, Pinot Noir

Styles
Most of the whites show saline and hazelnut tones,  and if they are developed under flor there are richer yeasty and oyster shell flavours. As for the mountain reds, there is a cooler tannin profile and a lovely show of earthy freshness.

Favourite Producers
Domaine Pelican, Stephane Tissot, Jean Francois Ganevat, Frederic Puffeney

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  4. Domaine Philippe Collotte Marsannay Les Grasses Tetes 2019
    Domaine Philippe Collotte Marsannay Les Grasses Tetes 2019
    From two parcels of old vines; one based on Crinoidal limestone (known in France as Calcaire à Entroques), the other Comblanchien.

    This wine is perfumed and pure with real depth, lovely minerality in an elegant and focused style. Are refined palate that is persistent and with nice drive but never comes off hard or pushy. Its velvety tannins mesh nicely with the small foresty-fruit mix carrying it to a long and satisfying finish. Seamless and classy this is all you could want from a wine like this and more.
    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $72.00 As low as $64.80
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  5. Domaine Collotte Fixin Champstion 2016
    Domaine Collotte Fixin Champstion 2016
    Made from vines planted in the early 1980's this wine shows lovely aromatics and remarkable finesse for the appellation. Fixin, just to the north of Gevrey Chambertin, is renowned for producing sturdy, rich Pinots yet here we have a wine with much more finesse than one expects.

    The extra couple of years in bottle has done wonders for this wine and it's sitting in such a good spot. Underbrush and forest floor here sprinkled with currents, cranberry and baking spice alongside a peppery hit and savoury, wild herbs. Mellow and round but with plenty of bounce. There is a real joie-du-vie here that is hard to resist. A beautiful introduction to the wines of Fixin.
    2016
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $72.00 As low as $64.80
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  13. Domaine de Bellene Nuits St Georges 2018
    Domaine de Bellene Nuits St Georges 2018

    A slightly fresher nose offers up decidedly floral-infused aromas of spice, the sauvage and black cherry aromas. Once again, the medium weight flavors are not particularly concentrated, but they are reasonably refined in the context of what is typical for the appellation, all wrapped in serious if slightly rustic finale. BURGHOUND

    This wine is always one of the sleepers in the range. Initially it collapsies in on itself. Austere and muscular but after time it is a glorious expression of pure commune terroir. 2018 is one of the best examples I have seen. MICHAEL MCNAMARA

    2018
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $110.00 As low as $99.00
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  16. Domaine de Pelican Trois Cepages 2019
    Domaine de Pelican Trois Cepages 2019
    This is the historic red cuve?e from Domaine du Pe?lican. They have been producing it since their inaugural vintage, in 2012. At the time, they decided to vinify together all of their red grapes and thereby created this blend of Pinot Noir (60%), Trousseau (35%) and Poulsard (5%). Hence the name, Trois Ce?pages. The vineyards from which this cuvee is produced are all located on the village of Montigny-lès-Arsures, where the winery also sits. The soil is made of grey and black marls, partially covered with fallen rocks. The vineyards broadly face west, at an elevation of between 300 and 400 metres. Élevage is in burgundy barrels (50%) and foudre.

    Light, bright crimson. Juicy and lively with both red and dark-red fruit. Pure and with a light dusting of stoniness. This is a wine that draws you in with its pretty and vibrant fruit and then holds you captive with freshness, super-fine tannins and great length. Charming but not in the least insubstantial. Delicate and intense at the same time. A wine of real beauty. JULIA HARDING, jancisrobinson.com
    2019
    Pinot noir, Poulsard, Trousseau
    France
    412
    $115.00 As low as $103.50
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  36. Georges Glantenay Volnay Les Santenots 2018 1er
    Georges Glantenay Volnay Les Santenots 2018 1er
    This is the first wine to display any appreciable wood influence and even here it's subtle as it easily allows the black cherry, violet and warm earth-suffused aromas to shine. As one would reasonably expect there is more volume and much more power to the muscular and robust flavors that also exude evident minerality on the notably firmer finish. This is a big Santenots that will need at least some aging. BURGHOUND
    2018
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $215.00 As low as $193.50
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  37. Robert Chevillon Nuits Prulieres 2017 1er
    Robert Chevillon Nuits Prulieres 2017 1er
    4 BOTTLE LIMIT
    A distinctly earthy and somewhat somber nose possess notes of underbrush, the sauvage, dark currant and plum. The rich, concentrated and powerful medium weight flavors flesh both good minerality and excellent complexity on the solidly long and balanced if overtly rustic and very firm finish. This is a big wine in the context of the vintage and very Nuits in character. "Outstanding" BURGHOUND
    2017
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $230.00 As low as $207.00
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  40. Jane Eyre Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 1er 2017
    Jane Eyre Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 1er 2017
    From the same producer as her Gevrey village. She’s been making this since 2015. Next to Mazis. 10% whole bunch. One of four barrels is new oak.
    Mid garnet. Lots of minerally intensity and intrigue on the nose – very different from her other wines on the nose and with more race and tension, but still the same flattering, accessible, naked fruit. Well done! (17) JANCIS ROBINSON

    This is the third vintage of this impressive premier cru from Australian micro-négogiant Jane Eyre, sourced from a single parcel next to Mazis-Chambertin. Pure, elegant and refined, it has cherry and raspberry aromas, subtle 25% new wood and just a hint of whole bunch sap. Textured, delicate and very long. TIM ATKIN, Decanter Magazine
    2017
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $235.00 As low as $211.50
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  41. Jane Eyre Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 2016 1er
    Jane Eyre Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 2016 1er

    There are three barrels of the 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux this year and it is due for bottling around February (indeed, there was a bit of reduction on the nose). It comes from a parcel adjacent to the lieu-dit of Mazis-Bas. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent red cherry and strawberry fruit, grainy in texture, a Corbeaux that exerts a gentle grip with impressive tension and sense of energy on the finish. This has great potential and may well surpass the 2015. NEAL MARTIN

    First vintage 2015, from the same supplier as the Gevrey village wine. The parcel is right next to Mazis-Chambertin and Eyre sees some similarities to the Mazis fruit she used to have at Domaine Newman. Around 15% whole bunch. Three barrels, one new. Barrel sample. Eyre notes that it tends to be a bit reductive in the beginning, so it is bottled later than her other wines.
    Darker and more savoury than the Savigny Vergelesses with a light charry note that is part reduction and part oak, I suspect. Succulent and lightly chewy texture though the tannins are very fine. Extremely moreish. The juicy fruit escapes around the edges and gives a long finish but a bit flattened by the oak at the moment. Wait. JULIA HARDING MW

    2016
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $240.00 As low as $216.00
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  43. Jean Marc Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Les Carelles 2016
    Jean Marc Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Les Carelles 2016
    More aromatic than the Caillerets, offering warmer, more demonstrative scents and flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, smoke and subtle spices. A spicy, inviting, fine-grained wine from a sunny spot protected from wind, with the iron element in the soil providing volume. This mellow premier cru boasts a seductive sweetness (and 13.6% natural alcohol). Finishes with nicely integrated, horizontal tannins and lovely length. Bouley refers to this vineyard as his baby (he was actually 14 years old when these vines were planted), noting that the site "has all the elements to make great, unctuous, red-soil wine. STEPHEN TANZER, vinous.com
    2016
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $248.00 As low as $223.20
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  44. Domaine de Bellene Vosne Romanee Les Quartiers de Nuits 2018 Vieilles Vignes
    Domaine de Bellene Vosne Romanee Les Quartiers de Nuits 2018 Vieilles Vignes

    An overtly floral-suffused nose displays a lovely array of spice elements on the essence of red berry fruit aromas. I very much like the mid-palate mouthfeel of the sappy medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a powerful, rustic and mocha-inflected finish. This is quite a robust Vosne villages that will require at least some patience. BURGHOUND

    Always one of the wines of the range. Exhibits all the kirsch cherry and silken texture of a classic Vosne with the addition of some nice Asian spice coming from the 50% whole cluster. MICHAEL McNAMARA

    2018
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $255.00 As low as $229.50
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  45. Henri Boillot Volnay Chevrets 2018
    Henri Boillot Volnay Chevrets 2018

    The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Chevrets is showing beautifully, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petals, cassis and violets. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with an ample chassis of powdery tannins, fine concentration and succulent acids. From a parcel of 58-year-old vines, this is a quintessentially elegant Volnay that should also drink well young. WILLIAM KELLEY, Wine Advocate

    2018
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    $265.00 As low as $238.50
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