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Mornington

Located in the Port Phillip Zone an hour's drive north of Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula has a short, yet remarkable history of fine wine production. While there were a smattering of vineyards in the nineteenth century, modern viticulture on the Peninsula began when Ballieu Myer established a vineyard in 1972. This began an explosion of vineyards over the next thirty years with Main Ridge (1975) Stonier Wines (1978) Dromana Estate (1982) Moorooduc Estate (1983) Paringa Estate (1985) Port Phillip Estate (1987) Kooyong Estate (1996) Yabby Lake (1998), Ten Minutes by Tractor (1999) amongst those to become established during this time. Mornington Peninsula’s proximity to Melbourne and its underlying historical status as a holiday destination has strongly influenced the region's structure, influencing land prices resulting in a patchwork of small vineyards and producers spread across the area triangulated between popular weekend destination of Somerville, Flinders on Bass Straight and Rosebud on Port Phillip Bay. The result is a number of particularly accessible cellar door facilities and restaurants catering to tourists over weekends.

A maritime climate, the influence of Mornington’s proximity to the ocean, Bass Straight, and Port Philip Bay is the single most significant climatic factor affecting vineyards, followed by the diverse typography of terrain. Overall the climate is cool, the pervasive winds limiting issues with humidity and frost. The typography soil profile is diverse, impacting on viticulture, with the significantly cooler, elevated area surrounding Red Hill and Arthurs Seat (Main Ridge, Port Philip Estate) on fertile red volcanic soils, differing from the warmer low-lying areas of Moorooduc and Tuerong (Yabby Lake) which have well-draining sandy soils.

Mornington Peninsula is renowned for the production of high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which are the most planted varieties, alongside Shiraz, Pinot Gris and very small quantities of Sauvignon Blanc. Mornington Pinot Noir is diverse, with many single vineyard bottlings ranging from light delicate expressions to more powerful styles with wines displaying flavours of bright cherry, strawberry and nuances of earth to powerful expressions with darker fruits and firmer tannins. Outstanding producers include Kooyong, Hurley Vineyards, Port Philip Estate, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Moorooduc Estate and Yabby Lake. Quality conscious producers follow the same model with Chardonnay bottling premium wines from site specific vineyards. On the whole these display delicate aromas of melon, citrus, with warmer sites display fig notes. Depending on winemaking styles they also may show notes of nutty characters of cashew and toasty oak or butter. Outstanding producers include Main Ridge, Kooyong, Yabby Lake, Moorooduc and Ten Minutes by Tractor.

While only planted in small quantities Shiraz from the Mornington Peninsula displays the classic cool climate characters including spice, black and white pepper, smoked meats and liquorice. Outstanding producers are limited, though the variety is starting to gain ground with both Paringa Estate and Foxy’s Hangout winning awards at major Australian wine shows in the last three years. 

Pinot Gris is produced in small quantities and occasionally labelled as Pinot Grigio to indicate a dryer Italian style expression of the variety with T'Gallant and Quealy having had success with this variety.

Sources:
James Halliday’s Wine Atlas of Australian, James Halliday
Victorian Department of Primary Industries
Wine Australia

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  1. 2A Pinot Noir 2019
    2A Pinot Noir 2019

    Made by an icon within the Australian wine industry Matt Harrop. Matt had stints at Grosset and Brokenwood before creating Shadowfax in 1999. Now making wine at Curly Flat and Silent Way, Matt has gained a reputation for making stunning cool climate wines with structure, concentration and complexity.
    This Pinot Noir was made exclusively for the Prince Wine Store with fruit sourced from the Macedon Ranges. The youthful wine presents a vibrant nose of fresh cut strawberries with a herbaceous edge. Bright red fruit follows on the palate, with fresh crunchy acidity and subtle spiced characteristic. Beautifully accompanied with roast rabbit or enjoyed on its own. PWS

    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    426
    $20.00 As low as $18.00
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  4. Silent Way Pinot Noir 2021
    Silent Way Pinot Noir 2021
    Matt Harrop has been making pinot from this Kilmore site since 2013. Before that Giant Steps used to take the grapes. The vineyard is on an old bluestone quarry and it’s cold here – Kilmore sits just outside the Macedon GI. Harrop attributes the soils and cooler climate to building structure in the wine. I wouldn’t go so far as to say it’s the iron fist in the velvet glove, but there is an elegance to its delivery wrapped in a firm and fine tannin. It unleashes structure and flesh, complemented by a central Victorian spice that reminds you where it comes from. This pinot that doesn’t shy away from framework – though the tannins are fine in keeping with its pinot nature. Exceptional for the price! GABRIELLE POY
    2021
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    426
    $29.00 As low as $26.10
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  6. Kooyong Pinot Noir 2019 375ml
    Kooyong Pinot Noir 2019 375ml

    Kooyong, owned by Giorgio and Dianne Gjergja, released its first wines in 2001. The vineyard is planted to pinot noir (20ha), chardonnay (10.4ha) and, more recently, pinot gris (3ha). In July '15, following the departure of Sandro Mosele, his assistant of six years, Glen Hayley, was appointed to take his place. The Kooyong wines are made at the state-of-the-art winery of Port Phillip Estate, also owned by the Gjergjas. JAMES HALLIDAY

    The estate Pinot Noir from one of the Mornington Peninsula’s flag bearers.

    It’s a wine defined by its shape. It angles towards the finish and then pushes on out; the pulleys are in place from the beginning. Twiggy spice, a general woody/savouriness, dark cherry and a light coating of cedar. I wouldn’t call it taut but I would call it firm and indeed strict. It’s as though the wine’s flavour run on converging rails. It’ll be a better drink in a year or more. CAMPBELL MATTINSON

    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $30.00 As low as $27.00
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  8. Quealy Musk Creek Pinot Noir 2019
    Quealy Musk Creek Pinot Noir 2019

    Planted in 1997 by Kevin and Kathleen with predominantly MV6, the Musk Creek vineyard at Main Ridge is a considerably cooler, and hence later-ripening site than Tussie Mussie or Seventeen Rows.

    As with most of the Pinots here, the wine was 100% destemmed and no whole bunches were used. Tom McCarthy did not sulphur the juice until pressing and fermented in two- to three-tonne fermenters, the juice spent four weeks on skins with just one plunging per day. Only the free-run wine was sent to barrel (25% to François Frères, with the remainder to one- to three-year-old hogsheads).

    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $35.00 As low as $31.50
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  9. Red Claw by Yabby Lake Pinot Noir 2020
    Red Claw by Yabby Lake Pinot Noir 2020
    • Gold Royal Melbourne Wine Awards Melbourne

    None of Yabby Lakes' top wines, their Single Block or Single Vineyard wines were released in the difficult and very small vintage of 2020. But this humble was a beneficiary, and we're not suprised by its step up in quality. This is a classy wine for the money, large French puncheons are used adding complexity and savoury tones. Great value pinot like this is hard to find.

    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $35.00 As low as $31.50
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  11. Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 375ml
    Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 375ml

    2021 was a vintage of exceptional quality.  A wet winter, mild spring and temperate summer produced wines that will live long in the memory and in the cellar.  The wines are fine, focused, beautifully balanced and above all, utterly delicious. This Single Vineyard Pinot Noir is intense and complex, super fine and silky. 

    A bright and dense crimson colour. The aromas are intense and complex for a young wine - red fruits, raspberry, red currant with dark cherries, coupled with a floral and spicy note. The palate is super fine and silky with layers of flavour and texture leading to a long and bold finish. Cellar for at least five years, and preferably more than 10. TOM CARSON, Winemaker, Yabby Lake

    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $38.00 As low as $34.20
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  12. Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir 2018
    Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir 2018
    A sappy, round and richly flavoured pinot exuding mottled red berry and blue fruit scents along a twine of gentle acidity and herbal tannins. Hewn of fruit from three vineyards: McIntyre, Robinson and Garden. Given a longer maceration than most (19-21 days), this address' wines seem light years away from when last tasted. For the better! More structure, depth and intensity all around. Kudos. NED GOODWIN MW, Wine Companion

    Medium to full ruby colour, the bouquet echoing the beginnings of some age development, with a toasty-smoky note and hints of berry compote, subtle foresty bunchy nuances too, and these are supported by abundant soft but drying tannins on the palate. There's a charming core of sweet fruit and the wine is overall really delicious and succulent. And very good value. HUON HOOKE, Real Review
    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $41.00 As low as $36.90
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  17. Moorooduc Estate Robinson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018
    Moorooduc Estate Robinson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018

    A lighter shade of Mornington, singing a soprano of bright red berry fruits and autumnal forest scents. Lifted and highly aromatic. The mid-weighted palate, lighter feeling than usual. Almost ethereal. Crunchy and saliva-sucking. Defined by an immaculate patina of tannin that is herb-inflected, yet ripe; detailed, yet svelte. A fine pinot of textural intrigue and freshness. NED GOODWIN MW, James Halliday’s Wine Companion

    Beautifully ethereal strawberries and wild raspberries with fresh herbs and pomegranate, as well as a light leafy edge and forest wood. The palate has attractive, lithe, strawberry and raspberry flavors with some pastry-like smoothness through the mid-section. Delicately detailed finish. Bright and succulent pinot that will develop complexity in bottle. NICK STOCK, jamessuckling.com

    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $65.00 As low as $58.50
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  21. Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
    Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
    A poker face to start, a cool and delineated nose of spiced black cherries, red plums and moss entice you in. A composed core starts slowly to unfurl and you get a sense of the tension and life in this wine. It's youthful and linear, a skeleton of fine silty tannins ribs the core of fruit; blackberry compote, rose petals, rosemary and white pepper. After a few hours in the bottle, its linearity starts to unravel and silken layers of fruit and tannins emerge. Its power builds. This captures the beguiling nature of pinot perfectly, revealing only what it wants when it wants to. Give this a few years at least in the cellar, it's one of the best Aussie pinots we've seen in recent years. A real royal flush. GABRIELLE POY
    2021
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    Special Price $72.00 Regular Price $79.00 As low as $65.00
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  31. August Premium Six Pack 2022 - Premium Pinot's
    August Premium Six Pack 2022 - Premium Pinot's

    We know you love pinot and we have put together a brilliant little pack from Australia, New Zealand and even Burgundy.

    These are some our favourite producers all in this one great box with a great showing of local legends from the Mornington and Yarra Valley as well as one of New Zealand's benchmarks bottlings. Round that out with a couple of soft and supple, ready-to-go Burgundies and this is the perfect pack to take a dip into.

    Australia represents strong in this months pack. From the Mornington Peninsula two heroes of the region are on show with the Kooyong Estate pinot noir 2019 and the latest release of the Yabby Lake Single pinot noir 2021. The Kooyong was a hit when last we tried and was one of the better estate releases from Kooyong with wonderful energy and sumptuous fruit while the Yabby is on fire! A brilliant bottling here with vibrant red fruits and subtle complexity that goes and goes.

    Up to the Yarra Valley and we have the ever-consistent Oakridge wines. A combo of stellar vineyards with the Willow Lake and one of Australia's greats, Dave Bicknell. A one-two combo of concentrated sweet fruits, fine tannins and layers of complexity that unfurl slowly over time in bottle or in the glass. He can do wrong!

    Over the ditch, to New Zealand we have the countries benchmark bottling with Ata Rangi 2019. We always wonder how this wine can get better but the team at Ata seems to take it up a notch every year. The 2019 has all the depth of fruit you expect but with a little extra lift and vibe. Normally we would say wait a bit for this wine but in half bottle this baby is hitting a sweet spot you just don't want to miss out.

    To close we have two wonderful Burgundies. The first is another PWS favourite in the Phillipe Collotte Marsannay. This satellite village is now hot property as prices soar in Burgundy proper but you might have trouble getting in now as Collotte have snapped up a lot of the great terroir. There Tete a Tete is all you could want with lithe tannins etched into a core of sweet fruit and savoury spice.

    The Tollot Beaut is a blend of three cuvees from three sides of the village and is a forward and generously styled pinot. All the mellow fruit of this southern appellation with foresty notes and supple spice it's a spot-on example of great Burgundy from this somewhat overlooked appellation.

    $222.00 Regular Price $262.00
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