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  1. Hiedler Kogelberg Riesling 2014
    Hiedler Kogelberg Riesling 2014

    Representing a mere 800 liters of the best material from a half-hectare of vines (which most years would join Hiedler’s “Maximum” bottling), this is scented with gentian, wisteria, peach kernel and rinds of tangerine and grapefruit; the latter anticipate the piquant edge to an invigoratingly zesty but otherwise silken palate. Thankfully, there is not only abundant fresh citrus and white peach juiciness to assuage any tendency toward bitterness, but also a remarkable saline-sweet savor of fresh scallop and browned butter that milked my salivary glands in a long, luscious finish. If this gains as much in the course of 2016 as it did between my tasting from tank in June and from bottle in September, it will turn out to be a rare treasure of its vintage. DAVID SCHILDKNECHT, 2016

    2014
    Riesling
    Austria
    413
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