Bernard Defaix

Didier Defaix describes 2014 as one that “produced ultra-classic wines that stylistically really couldn’t be more different than their 2013 counterparts. The growing season started out well but in a sense was actually a bit too nice for the flowering as temperatures soared which caused a high incidence of shatter. The mid-summer conditions that followed weren’t especially propitious yet about 30 days before the harvest they became just about ideal. All of the water the vines had stockpiled during the summer allowed them to ripen the fruit quickly and we began picking on the 17th of September under ideal weather. You could pick slowly and carefully as there was no threat of inclement weather and this allowed us to wait for each parcel to arrive at its optimum ripeness level. Yields were about average but we had almost no sorting losses as the fruit was about as clean as I have ever seen with good potential alcohols that ranged between 12 and 13%. Interestingly, the acidities really weren’t all that different than they were in 2013 yet from the metric of how the fruit, and the subsequent wines, tasted, they are once again completely different. The alcoholic fermentations proceeded rapidly yet the malos were very slow and for the first time since 2010 we actually did a bit of lees stirring. In fact I would go so far as to say that the √©levage was more important in 2014 than it was in 2013. Overall I really like the 2014s and I believe anyone who enjoys classically styled Chablis will too.” The now in-bottle 2013s, revisited below, are lovely wines that should drink well early but reward short to mid-term cellaring. They were bottled between February and March 2015.¬†BURGHOUND 2015