This year I tasted a number of older vintages from Fleury alongside the new releases. I have to say, I was quite impresses with the way the estate’s best wines develop in bottle. ANTONIO GALLONI

Founded in 1895 Fleury was the first producer in the Cote de Bars to produce their own wine and eschew the local tradition of selling of their fruit to the large houses (1928) well before the grower movement we know today kicked off. Interestingly the dominant soil here is Kimmeridgian clay, similar to those found in Chablis. All the work here focuses on the vineyards where everything is done by hand and the fields ploughed by horse to minimize impact. Biodynamic principles are followed both with their viticulture and vinification where gravity is used to move the fruit and juice. This estate epitomizes the grower movement. ROSCOE