Guimaro

Guímaro has 11 hectares of vineyards—all in the Amandi subzone of Ribeira Sacra and all in the village of Doade—and they control another 20 hectares across Ribeira Sacra. They produce 160,000 bottles per year. Since 2013, alcohol levels have been lowered, and it’s not low alcohol just for the hell of it. But when you are able to harvest earlier with ripe grapes and lower alcohol, the wines show the terroir more transparently. This change has been gradual, and in 2019, some of the wines have alcohol levels of 12.5%. I caught the 2018s, which could very well be their finest vintage to date. LOUIS GUTIERREZ