Few producers in the Rheingau are as meticulous in their vineyard management as Josi Leitz, as he is affectionately known in Rüdesheim. Stroll through the Berg Schlossberg and the differences from one owner’s parcel to the next become readily apparent even to the untrained eye. Known to most for his impeccable dry and off-dry rieslings, which have always been among the finest produced in the Rheingau in any given vintage, Leitz also excels with kabinetts and spätleses. As you will see below, his 2012 collection was not only a show-stopper within the region, but a number of his rieslings were also among the best bottled in all of Germany this year. Moreover, his entry-level offerings with humorous names like Eins-Zwei-Dry, Dragonstone and Magic Mountain are widely available and offer excellent value.  JOEL B. PAYNE,Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar