Ruinart, Philipponnat and Roederer are among the houses that have new, ultra-high end wines in the market. Growers aren’t being left behind, as can be seen by new cuvées from Vincent Laval, Vilmart, Pierre Péters and others. Readers should be thinking very carefully about building relationships today to ensure a reasonable supply of wines in the future. ANTONIO GALLONI

When I think of finesse in Champagne, Vilmart is one of the first names that comes to mind. Proprietor Laurent Champs has the magic touch in crafting exquisite wines that can stand with the very best….. The Vilmart style can be defined as timeless and classic. All of the Vilmart Champagnes are aged in oak, but with blocked malos, an approach that yields Chardonnays and Pinots of nearly incomparable finesse. Readers who haven’t discovered Vilmart yet owe it to themselves to do so. ANTONIO GALLONI

Vilmart is among my favorite houses that have mastered the difficult challenge of delivering an elegant and full-flavored Champagne with finesse. If you don’t know the house, do yourself a favor and give one of the cuvées a try, you’ll thank me for the suggestion. BURGHOUND

If a visit with the articulate and passionately quality-conscious Laurent Champs – or even “just” the tasting of his wines – doesn’t leave you inspired about the future of Champagne, then I don’t know what that would take. DAVID SCHILKNECHT,