They said it couldn't be done, but 40 year old Eulogio Pomares and his wife Rebecca Zarate are the first authentic organic growers in Rías Baixas. More importantly, their wines are delicious. There are three indigenous red varietals, harking back to the pre-phylloxera days of Rías Baixas as a predominantly red wine region! Albariño, it turns out, is largely a 20th century phenomenon. SCOTT WASLEY