Domaine Ostertag Riesling Clos Mathis 2014

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
Straw-green. Reticent, soil-driven aromas of quince and chamomile, plus an incipient diesel fuel element. Rich, ripe and intensely flavored, featuring notes of green apricot, flowers and botanical herbs. Ripe and long on the back end, which features balsamic mementos. As usual, this large-scale wine tastes big, almost massive, and savory, in a Trocken Pfalz-like way compared to Ostertag’s other more Nahe-like wines. It’s also the easiest wine to recognize blind in Ostertag’s lineup, as it’s more shut down and folded onto itself when young, and larger-scale in its profile, than Ostertag’s other Rieslings (the vineyard is located in Ribeauvillé and therefore has a completely different geological origin than the other Riesling sites owned by Ostertag). The real name of this site is Hagel, which in German means “hail,” so it’s understandable that Ostertag wasn’t keen on using this name for his wine. IAN D'AGATA, VINOUS