Head Wines The Brunette Moppa Shiraz 2014 1500ml

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney

From a vineyard at the top of Moppa Hill (380m), the soils lean red clays, picked 7 Mar (a week earlier than average), 10% retention of stems, 2 weeks wild yeast fermentation, matured for 12 months in French barriques (one-third new). Deep colour; marries deep, rich, velvety black fruits with perfect balance, so much so that the full-bodied nature of the wine passes you by. The tannins, in particular, are as smooth as silk, as are the precisely engineered wheels that glide the palate through and along its prodigious length. JAMES HALLIDAY

Toasty and spicy, black fruit, dark chocolate and something like dried roses adding perfume. Medium to full bodied, dense and quite chewy – so much more rugged than The Blonde of the same vintage – dark chocolate again, some beef jerky flavours, ropes of dry grainy tannin, pulling very firm and slaty on the finish. Boysenberry freshness bobs up in the aftertaste. Serious kind of wine. Needs some time. Suspect it might become something a bit good.  GARY WALSH winefront.com.au August 2015