Hewitson Old Garden Mouverdre 2010

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
From the oldest known continually producing mourvedre wines in the world, sown in 1853 and given life these days by Dean Hewitson at Hewitson. He plays cricket for Five Way Cellars in the Laurent Perrier Cup, against my mighty Best Cellars, so I tend not to review his wines if he smacks me about when I am bowling. Fine striker of the ball is Deano. Anyway, 2010 and Old Garden…
An amazing array of spice, fruit, earth, savoury, sweet and ‘other’ in the bouquet here – so very deep, not assaultingly heady, just a piling of layers that makes for intriguing inhalation. The palate shows slippery rims, but the inward looking core is a black hole that reveals incredible depth of fruit with mille-feuille feel of gentle sweetness, slatey tannin, graphite minerality and leathery spice. Although deep, it’s so far from overblown in richness – there’s a groaning weight but also freshness. The wine coats the mouth but without walloping it, instead opting for a machine-oil sumptuousness that peters out into chalky, fine tannins. Allow this to morph with time open too. Superior liquid. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front 2014