Krug Grand Cuvee NV

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
Light yellow-gold.  Fresh orchard fruits, lemon and toasty lees on the fragrant nose.  Tightly coiled but deep in pear, quince and candied lemon flavors, with smoke and anise notes building with air.  Shows an intriguing blend of richness and vivacity, finishing with strong cut and impressive smoky persistence.  This bottling isn't likely to quell the dismay of Krug fanatics who sense a change of style at the house favoring finesse over power, but there's absolutely nothing wimpy about this Champagne. JOSH RAYNOLDS, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 2011

My visit to Krug in November was illuminating, as I spent several hours tasting through a number of 2008 vins claires and reserve wines with Director of the Maison Olivier Krug and Director of OEnology Eric Lebel. Although Krug ages its young wines exclusively in French oak barrels, these wines were remarkably pure and transparent; suggesting that much of the signature Krug toastiness may come from the extended period the wines spend on their lees rather than from the oak. Over the yeas many of the most monumental, mind-bending Champagnes I have had have emerged from these cellars in Reims. Krug boasts an extraordinarily rich history along with a superb track record. In a recent tasting that included most, if not all, of the top 1996s, the Krug Vintage and Clos du Mesnil were at the very top of the pack. Along with making profound wines, under the direction of the charming Olivier Krug this venerable estate has pushed the boundaries on pricing to levels never seen before. The newest wine from Krug is the 100% Pinot Noir Clos d’Ambonnay. Sadly, that wine is priced for billionaires, not mortals. Krug does not provide disgorgement dates for its wines, something which is a serious shortcoming considering the lofty prices these bottles fetch. The corks are stamped with a code which can be traced back to a disgorgement lot and date, but that will be of little use to consumers once bottles are opened. It would be great to see Krug take a leadership position among the region’s grands marques and add disgorgement dates to its labels. ANTONIO GALLONI