Laherte Freres Ultradition Brut NV

Availability: In stock

Regular Price: $91.00

Special Price $69.00

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney

Cleverly named Ultradition, 'because our work in the vines and the winery now is not traditional' Aurelian explains. 'We are trying to do something different'. This is certainly a characterful expression of an entry cuvee, with plenty of complexity of apple, fig, lemon butter and the mixed spice, anise and ginger of barrel maturation. Sone dry extract on the finish is heightened by toasty barrels and low dosage, conspiring to create dry, textural grip, typical of this cuvee. Malic acidity keeps things tense and tight. TYSON STELZER

60% Meunier; 30% Chardonnay; 10% Pinot –is exuberantly dominated by juicy and vivacious lime, peach, grapefruit, and Persian as well as honeydew melons, their succulent fruit mingled on a polished palate with nut oils and shitake, as well as suffused with a saliva-drawing sweet-saline, iodine-rich savor of crab and lobster shell reduction that makes for a compelling finish. Yes, this is certainly a capital “U” umami-rich wine! I’m astounded to realize – given its sense of energy and vivacity – that it is based on vintage 2009. Whatever be “ultradition,” it’s an approach I can only heartily commend to other growers! (Of course, you might not be able to make anything like this if you lack that “secret ingredient,” good Meunier; and scrolling down to my review of Lahertes’ “Les 7” might raise suspicions of a connection between their greatest successes – as I perceive them –and the prominence of unjustly neglected cepages!) DAVID SCHILDKNECT, erobertparker