Penfolds Grange 2006 MAGNUM

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney
Best be counted in the number? So too I journeyed to Kalimna to sup at the teat of Treasury Wine Estate’s blue chip Penfolds ‘Icon wines’ event. CM has covered the background (and his thoughts) on the wine adroitly, I am posting my thoughts, for what they are worth, to have them in the ether.

2006 Grange is a focused, oak sopper of formidable physique that shows its hallmark ability to impressively mesh raw, layered fruit power, architectural tannins and a swathe of pristine, heady oak. It bugs me to see the wine in this state – as a glass-to-glasser in its infancy it is adamantine in this incarnation. Here, we as wine writers, are given the job of soothsayers; will it live for decades, undoubtably, will it further weave and show the kind of intellectual edifice for which this acolyte of wines is renowned, I reckon. It’s as impressive as I have ever seen new release Grange and a treatise to the work and machinations of winemaking. However, it also manages to toe a line that represents a manifestation of the old school sense of brooding, pent up muscle-and-brawn, while showing the lattice-work of modern ripeness and tannin flex. A fountain of youth forged from vineyard and fruit selection. There is a quiet awe at hand, but here is the consumer advocate in sotto voce, as this is a wine that strays from where current pleasures lie for me. Regardless, credit is due…  MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front 2011