Von Buhl Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Trocken Riesling 2015

Availability: In stock

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  • South Melbourne
  • Sydney

Like its Paradiesgarten counterpart, this bottling from the “original” core Herrgottsacker vineyard was raised entirely in cask and bottled along with the Grosse Gewächse of its vintage, but then not released for eight or nine further months. The casks here were evidently newer, as the nose displays resinous notes from oak, and the wood is probably also one reason – though the deeper-soiled, lower elevation site is surely another – why there is less bright primary juiciness here and a bit of textural stiffness vis-à-vis that Paradiesgarten. But this bottling is amazingly dense and pithily concentrated, featuring pit-inflected white peach, dried apple and hazelnut, and a slippery abundance of glycerol helps ward off what might otherwise be an impression of austerity. An elusive underlying earthiness helps ground the finish. Here is a wine to watch, in particular to see whether the oak integrates more fully, though I suspect that if it does, this will be more by way of overtly woody aromas and flavors retreating than by refinement of texture or enhanced juiciness. DAVID SCHILDKNECHT, vinous