Adhemar and Francois Boudin Chablis 2019 Offer
Chantemerle Chablis – the price seems almost ridiculously low, JANCIS ROBINSON
The artisan tradition in Chablis is alive and well at Chantemerle, Francis Boudin’s small estate…I have long admired these mostly stripped-down wines… for their direct expressions of place. ANTONIO GALLONI
One of the beauties of Chablis is its fragility. Its nervy nature runs an electric current through the wine. Sitting precariously in its northern location, the region has historically provided knife-edge ripening conditions, resulting in purity to the fruit unattainable elsewhere. This inherent fragility is its superpower, as these wines are anything but fragile.
While new oak is generally avoided in Chablis, some producers like Raveneau favour old oak to give a little breadth to the wine. Others who chase line and purity such as Louis Michel, embrace stainless steel to capture the inherent zip in the wine. It’s not a huge distinction as neither detracts from the grape, rather a subtle nuance. The wines of Boudin fall somewhere between these two styles.
No oak is used at the Boudin estate. What began as a family feud has now become their winemaking philosophy for at least three generations. When Adhemar Boudin took over from Grandpa Boudin (a cooper), he refused to use oak. Francois Boudin, Adhemar’s son is now at the helm and continues the no oak mantra, favouring cement and stainless steel.
You can taste the tension in the wine, a nervosity that thrills and excites. The absence of oak lays the wine bare, exposing its stony soil origins. The clarity and crunch of the grapes are on full display. It’s like you’ve slipped on your x-ray goggles when sipping this wine.
While you may be familiar with Chantemerle Chablis. As a new generation has taken over, the estate now goes by the name Adhemar and Francois Boudin. The wines have been harnessed by current winemaker Francois Boudin and show a lively edge to their primely fruited cores. The future is looking bright here.
All the fruit is estate owned and sustainable agriculture promoted to ensure they leave a healthy legacy for future generations. This also pronounces the fruit purity, a classic Chablis trademark.
Another sign they beat to their own drum is their cache of old clone chardonnay vines. In the 1970s when many of their neighbours replanted with high vigour vines to get more bang for their buck, they held their heads and kept their old vines. This shows in the intensity of their wines; a melange of ripe stonefruits, pithy citrus and a tangy limestone.
We have two wines on offer today; the Chablis AC and Fourchaume Premier Cru. The Chablis is sourced from plots near the village of La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, just west of Fourchaume. While the Premier Cru Fourchaume is a standout. Jancis Robinson included the 2014 in her ‘wine of the week wrap-up’ noting ‘a heady quintessentially Chablis infusion of stony river bed with a hint of wet wool, came soaring out of the glass… already delicious but I’m sure it will become even more so over the next decade – and the price seems almost ridiculously low.’
To tempt we’ve included special prices on single bottles, 6 pack and dozen buys. But the real value is in a dozen bundle, six of each for a 30% discount. It’s a nice mix, drink your AC Chablis now while you wait for the Premier Cru Fourchaume.