Chateau Cambon Beaujolais 2019
Chateau Cambon is the creation of a cult-Beaujolais triad; the late Marcel Lapierre, Jean Claude Chanudet and Joseph Chamonard. Like-minded in their pursuit of purity, this 2019 Beaujolais is fleshy and joyful – uncomplicated happiness in a glass.
Marcel Lapierre was a warm, generous and vibrant man, just like his wines. A figurehead of the natural wine movement, he never lost sight of the joy wine could bring. On the first release of Chateau Cambon, he remarked, ‘It’s a drink, you can drink it under the shower; it’s a wine you don’t ask questions about.’
The beauty of this Beaujolais lies in its fleshy outlook that is entwined with floral and mineral tones. It’s deliciously moreish and undemanding, a jumble of red and blue fruits and sweet spices.
Today the estate is run by Marie Lapierre, Marcel’s wife with help from her son Matthieu. They’ve rejuvenated old vines, some over 100 years old from forgotten vineyards between the crus of Morgon and Brouilly. Chemicals are avoided in the vineyard. Biodynamic practices are employed and thoughtful winemaking in the cellar. Toil in the vineyard is preferred to work in the winery to prime the purity of the gamay fruit.
Josh Raynolds noted its predecessor, the 2018 ‘…conveys a suave blend of richness and energy finishing impressively long and juicy, displaying finely interwoven tannins and resonating florality.’ And NYT wine critic Eric Asimov is a fan too, he described the 15’ as ‘bright, earthy, lip-smacking, slightly rustic straight Beaujolais from Château Cambon, the kind of wine that you simply don’t want to stop drinking.’
2019 is an excellent vintage. Ripeness, structure and freshness prevailed. While it will cellar well, this is all about immediate enjoyment. And at this price, it’s a beautiful cheap thrill.
Reach for this when you want to be adorned by the juicy joy of gamay. Its versatility is part of its charm, match it with whatever you’re serving for dinner.
You’ll want liberal lashings of this for autumn and winter. We’ve sharpened the price on single bottles to $36 but the best value lies in a 6 pack buy for $198 (making the bottle price just $33 each).