Foreau Molleaux Vovuray 2017 - Sweet Electrified Liquid
Founded in 1923, Philippe Foreau’s Domaine du Clos Naudin has remained a small and prized estate within Vouvray – it’s less than 1/3 the size of its friend and neighbour Domaine Huet. Today Vincent Foreau is in charge, taking over from his dad, the charismatic Phillip Foreau in 2016.
Chenin is laid bare in all its glory at this estate – dry, sparkling, demi-sec and moelleux. Today we’re offering the liquid electric 2017 Phillipe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Moelleux. A medium-sweet wine that is amplified with a perfectly poised pitch of sweetness and cleansing acidity.
This is far from a globby sweet rendition, its nose is evocative and stunning. Wine critic Jason Wilson describes it as ‘lots of ripe apple, even Calvados-like notes, autumnal, fallen leaves, cinnamon and mulled spices.’ It’s an intriguing mix of sweet spices, earth and fruit. And then on the palate, a beautifully judged sweet core of ripe fruits is electrified by a scintillating bolt of acidity.
This is a stunning moelleux – not sweet enough to be a dessert wine but a perfect accompaniment for cheese. Its vibrant edge of acidity will cut through the richness of a triple cream brie or a salty blue. For comparison’s sake, this has 60 grams residual sugar, whereas a Sauternes averages more than double – around 150 grams. It’s a masterful make of a moelleux where they have relied on late picking to build flavours and ripeness instead of noble rot. The wines clarity is breathtaking.
Winemaking is kept simple. Organic methods are practised in the vineyard, all herbicide and pesticide sprays are avoided to allow the purity of the fruit to shine through. The sweet wines rely only on natural sugars, no chaptalisation is performed.
It’s youthful and precocious at the moment with a beaming future ahead. Tertiary tones of honey and ginger will evolve – tuck it away for a decade or two if you desire. 2017 is a composed and classical vintage, the wines are bound by a fine and energetic line of acidity. This will resonate beautifully with lovers of German pradikat rieslings.
We’ve taken 25% off the bottle price if you buy this in a 6 pack, making it $82.50 a bottle (the usual shelf price is $110).