Heritiers Comtes Lafon Macon Milly Lamartine 2018

Dominique Lafon’s talented on-site winemaker, Caroline Gon, enthusiastically noted that 2018 is an “outstanding vintage that gave us superb fruit to work with… Another aspect is how dry the wines fermented out and I think this contributes to the sensation of freshness and drinkability.” BURGHOUND

Dominique Lafon began his Mâconnais adventure in 1999 with seven hectares of vines; he now owns or controls nearly 25. “we don’t make Mâconnais wines to age a long time; we like them young and fruity.” Lafon himself is fond of saying that “we don’t make little Meursaults here; we do great Mâconnais wines.” STEPHEN TANZER

Dominique Lafon is largely recognised for putting his families Meursault estate, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, into the journal of Burgundy greats and in turn himself on the list of the countries best white-wine makers. Whilst this is undoubtedly true, much of what gives Dominique his midas touch is his ability to lead with clarity and intelligence.

He solidified his reputation by establishing Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon in the Macconais in 1999. It was this move south that really shone a light on his lateral thinking and dynamic approach to white burgundy.  Quality, terroir and pleasure seem to carry equal importance to the man, and although he has great knowledge of the regions vinous history, dogma has no place in his domaines.

Dominique’s not so secret weapon at Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon is head-winemaker Caroline Gon who has been with him since 2006. From their first meeting Caroline was not afraid to praise or question and articulate how some wines could be better. The two make an unstoppable team that aren’t afraid to question each other in pursuit of pushing the ceiling higher and higher. This has led to the use of larger format oak used here and not in Meursault.  Finning and filtration tests and more recently closure trials are only part of the consistent fine-tuning done at this estate.  Today the Domaine is 26 hectares with 7 hectares in Milly-Lamartine, all farmed bio-dynamically.  The Milly-Lamartine is a steep east facing vinyard that sits higher in altitude than their usually great Macon Villages Cuvee. 2018 is texturally richer, but the tension and underlying freshness remain true to the Heritier’s style.