Kumeu River Chardonnays 2020

If you have never tried these wines, then it is time you see for yourself what New Zealand is capable of. NEAL MARTIN

If you can taste history, duty, and family pride in a glass, it’s there in the Kumeu River Chardonnays. LISA PEROTTI_BROWN, The Wine Advocate

​​​​​…our best Village Chardonnay ever. MICHAEL BRAJKOVICH

The real steal is the Estate Chardonnay JANCIS ROBINSON

For me Kumeu River are comfortably New Zealand’s finest producer of Chardonnay. From their humble perch just a hop, skip and jump north-west from Auckland, the Brajkovich family has built an international reputation for producing wines of immense depth, power and purity. Their trio of single vineyard chardonnays are gobbled up with increasing voracity each year by thirsty collectors, but perhaps where the estate has made the most impact in quality in recent years is in their Village and Estate offerings. These wines now represent some of the best value chardonnays in their class that you can find anywhere on the planet, and that is no hyperbole.

The 2020 Village chardonnay, which Michael Brajkovich calls ‘our best ever’, is bursting with ripe stone fruit, delivering a mouth-coating richness tempered by cleansing stony acidity. How you can buy six of these for under $130 is beyond me. I can be parochial about Australian chardonnay, but I can’t think of a chardonnay from our shores that delivers this much at what is for many of us is a ‘cheap and cheerful’ price point. Wow.

The 2020 Estate chardonnay, sourced from six vineyards around Kumeu, could give a few serious white Burgundys a run for their money and at less than half the dollars. It’s a beautiful wine, fine and fragrant showing more floral, citrus and pear than the ripe, rich stonefruit of the village wine. For a Chardonnay of some restraint, it has remarkable length and intensity of flavour, with a wonderful grantic acidity driving the wine long across the palate. It’s effortless, vividly pure and the best estate that I can recall tasting.

There is not too much more to say other than for lovers of great chardonnay there is so much love here. Kumeu River continues to deliver in spades at these price points and you can stock up the cellar now, knowing you will have many fantastic bottles ready and waiting to be enjoyed.