Les Heritiers Macon Offer
Any serious conversation about great Burgundian white wines would be incomplete without mentioning Meursault’s much lauded, Domaine des Comte Lafon. Yet, today we are focusing not on the towering Meursault wines upon which this estate has built its impressive reputation, but on their humbler offerings from their trailblazing estate in the Maconnais.
In 1999, when Dominique Lafon decided to invest heavily in the Maconnais, it was a forgotten corner of Burgundy. Since that time Lafon, along with the likes of Domaine Leflaive, have built an enviable reputation for the high-quality wines they produce from this southern outpost of Burgundy.
Today, Comte Lafon are THE benchmark producer in the region, applying their experience, skill and significant resources that they have at their disposal when crafting their finest wines in the Cote, to producing some thrilling wines at far more modest price points in the Maconais, and further to that, establishing that the terroir of the region is one which is to be valued and explored.
Comte Lafon’s Macon-Village offering is the stepping off point for this estate and one which sets the tone for the full suite of wines. It is a perennial over-deliverer and in 2019 that has not changed. The wine always seems to have just that little more depth, tension and oomph than its counterparts from other competing estates. The 2019 is a wonderful release that weaves together nectarine, hazelnuts, wet stone and white flowers in a textural wine that walks the line wonderfully between nervous tension and mouth-filling generosity. This might just be best release I have seen of this wine.
This village offering is joined by three stunning single site wines that really showcase where this estate and the Maconais are at today. They represent the most expressive and complex wines ever produced in the region and echo their sites with remarkable clarity. This maverick biodynamic estate has, in a short period of time, transformed not only the wines coming from the region, but shifted whole frame of reference for the Maconnais, which was considered a relatively low-quality, homogenous corner of Burgundy not too long ago.
In short, the village offering is an incredible value village wine that really punches above it’s wait, while the single site wines offer a thrilling journey in the complex terroirs of this southern enclave of Burgundy. For those who say there is no longer value to be found in Burgundy, I would say look to Les Heritiers in the Maconnais.