Louis Boillot 2017s

Louis Boillot’s brilliant 2017s – Moulin-a-Vent with the soul of Gevrey

Louis Boillot’s views about the 2017 vintage are consistent with those of his wife Ghislaine Barthod. BURGHOUND
One of a growing number of Côte d’Or producers to acquire land in the Beaujolais, Louis Boillot—whose wines I taste every year in the cellars in Chambolle-Musigny that he shares with his spouse, Ghislaine Barthod—is producing superb examples of Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie. Classically vinified and given an unusually long élevage by the standards of the region, these are serious, elegantly muscular cru Beaujolais built to age with grace, and they come warmly recommended. WINE ADVOCATE, 2020

In the cellars in Chambolle-Musigny that he shares with his partner, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot produces some of the finest examples of Moulin-à-Vent being made today. Superb old-vine holdings and classically Burgundian winemaking—three week macerations, partial destemming and a judicious but subtle application of wood—lend these wines a Côte de Nuits accent but without in the least effacing their distinctive identities, and the wines’ structure and concentration guarantees their graceful and protracted evolution in bottle. Indeed, Boillot would belong on any short list recommended to readers who appreciate Beaujolais with bottle age. WILLIAM KELLEY, 2019

In 2002, Louis decided to quit his father’s domaine. The following year yet another extension was made to the Chambolle cellars. Louis made his first independent vintage in 2003. His wine is now as good as Ghislaine’s.
And while there is now a lot of similarity in the styles of the two, both seeking to bring elegance, intensity and fruit to the fore, Louis’ wines are more rugged, Ghislaine’s more sensual. It seems the Lucien Boillot domaine was divided exactly, meaning Louis doesn’t have very much of anything. DECANTER

Moulin-a-Vent with the soul of Gevrey. Louis may be famous for his Cotes de Nuits reds, justifiably so, but I can’t get over how good these two Beaujolais Cru are. Such gorgeous renditions of Moulin e Vent.

It is worth recapping the story of this estate for anyone who is not familiar with the wines. Louis Boillot is the partner, life and business, of legendary woman of wine Ghislaine Barthod. I make no apologies for the many gushing reviews and notes I have written about her wines over the years. She is justifiably something of an icon in the region for the beautifully compelling Chambolle bottlings she produces.

The two joined forces in the 80s and Louis parted from his family’s estate in the early 2000s, taking with him his small share of vineyards. The wines now share many characteristics, they are built around purity and expression of site. Burgundy of suave texture and sensual appeal. As you would expect, there are differences and those tend to be more based around the respective terroirs, rather than any major departures in winemaking or viticultural practices between the two estates. My understanding is that the two work hand in hand across the two domaines and the wines are produced in the same cellars.

Where they do seem to converge most strongly is these Beaujolais. Ghislaine’s wines are among my favourite in Chambolle, and so among my favourite anywhere, and you can really feel the presence of her style in these two beauties.

I have a slight preference for the VV, at the moment for its immediacy and pure pleasure, but both wines are superb and more than deserving of your attention. They drink wonderfully now and have the inherent stuffing and structural support to build more dimension and detail with time in the bottle. I love great Beaujolais for so many reasons and these tick all the boxes. Great quality? Yes! Accessible? Yes! Age Worthy? Yes! Digestible? Yes! Expressive of their place and season? Yes! And the all important part of the Beaujolais equation, are they affordable? Yes!

Most of our customers have likely, at some stage, been subject to one of my innumerable rants about why everyone should be buying and drinking more great Beaujolais. If these two don’t convince you that these represent some of the best quality verse value prospects anywhere then I don’t know what will. There are many, many wines just to the north of these that are not as good and sell for several times the amount.