Moorooduc Estate 2018 Single Vineyard Release

FIVE STARS
Richard McIntyre has taken Moorooduc Estate to new heights, having completely mastered the difficult art of gaining maximum results from wild-yeast fermentation. JAMES HALLIDAY

Since first falling in love with the wines of Burgundy more than 40 years ago, Richard McIntyre’s intellectual curiosity, force of logic and touch of the maverick has tested and trounced the theory ‘that one was wasting one’s time planting Pinot Noir outside the Côte d’Or; that Pinot Noir ‘did not travel”. Lovers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Burgundy and beyond will find much to admire in Moorooduc Estate’s wines. DECANTER MAGAZINE

With the Australian industry increasingly dominated by large, global conglomerates, it’s refreshing to taste wines that clearly speak of place and purpose. McIntyre stands as one of Australia’s most thoughtful, caring and sensitive winemakers, his wines a wonderful expression of his individual philosophy and respect for Burgundian winemaking principles. PETER BOURNE, Gourmet Traveller Wine

Some offers are easier to write than others. Sometimes it is because the wines sing and I just want to share them with our customers. Sometimes it’s because the people involved are good humans. Sometimes it’s because the estate is one of the region’s benchmarks. In this case it’s the triple threat.

I happened to stop in to the cellar door of Moorooduc estate on the weekend to taste through the wines quickly. At one point I commented to the person working there that the 18 pinots seemed more deeply pitched and more structured than usual. He agreed and pointed out that there was some great press coming out.

Once finished I popped my head in to the house to say hi to Kate and Richard for a chat about wine and life in general (plus recommendations on where to have dinner. We got fried chicken, if anyone was interested). When I questioned Kate on the 18s she noted that yields were down and that had played a roll in the tannins but was also quick to mention the careful management of the maceration to ensure that those tannins were well measured and provided support to the fruit rather than override it (my interpretation not her words).

At this point I would like to point out that everything here is excellent. It is always excellent. The Pinots are some of the finest in Australia on a regular basis. These 18s are just another notch in their impressive streak of successes. Also, in the nature of full disclosure, Kate is a friend of mine and everyone at PWS. As I mentioned in another recent offer we judge our friends in the trade by the quality of their wines before the quality of their character…. Lucky the McIntyre’s are some of the most accomplished producers on the Peninsula and also some of the best people.

Now, subsequently Kate turned up at the store on the following Tuesday to show the entire team the wines. The same comments about the two Pinots below were raised by my “learned” colleagues, without any prompts. There was a lot of studious looking head nodding and plenty of thoughtful sounds coming from around the tasting room as everyone had a little taste. Comments like “these are really, really good Kate” and “these seem denser and more structured than usual Kate”. Great minds think alike? It is either that or Kate and her old man have managed to craft some of the greatest Pinots of their family’s long and highly acclaimed careers and that quality is obvious to everyone who tastes these two wines? I think it is probably less of the former and more of the later.

I guess the quality here shouldn’t really have surprised anyone. Not only are they consistently at the top of the game in the region but 2018 was something of a remarkable vintage, one that James Halliday refers to as “The Mornington Peninsula had a vintage set to show special quality and quantity – the best for the past 30 years, comparable to 2004.” Great year. Great vineyards. Great wine makers. Great wines.

As to the two wines, well, as I mentioned they are superb. The Robinson vineyard delivers seductive, lip smacking and heady pinot in spades. It is so attractive right out of the gate that I was taken a little by surprise when the sweet, fine grained tannins made their presence felt. They kind of sneak out from the fruit, just a little nod to let you know that while this is good now it will be better with some age. Good luck keeping your hands of this beauty though.

The McIntyre… I am a rusted on fan of these wines, I guess like so many other Pinot drinkers in Oz are, and this is the best example I can remember trying from the family. It has all the elements in the right place to one day make for superb drinking. Right now it is a great to taste with that slow rumbling power and that somewhat introverted nature that requires a little coaxing to unveil, but the real pleasure in this wine is still to come. If you want to drink one early give it a good long decant. It is superb.

Sadly we only have ten dozen each of these two wines available. They have a very loyal following amongst our customers and always sell well. With the reviews they received this year I think they are likely to move at a rapid pace.

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