Moreau Naudet 2018 New Shipment
This is one of Chablis’s finest estates, and the domaine deserves to be much better known. WILLIAM KELLEY, The Wine Advocate
Virginie Moreau-Naudet is carrying on the work of her late husband, Stéphane, with real aplomb. TIM ATKIN MW
The two undisputed kings of Chablis are Raveneau and Dauvissat and I often wonder what sets these two apart from the rest. The answer for me is their ability to get their wines ripe, and therefore full of flavour, while still allowing the vineyard imprints to shine through. The balance must be there with freshness and minerality in harmony with intensity of flavour and richness of texture.
It seems purveying style throughout Chablis is one which is all too happy to give up that pursuit of flavour intensity and texture in favour of high acid, flinty, angular and often bland expressions.
However, in recent years we have seen a very small handful of Chablis producers shift their focus in the other direction and now there are some real contenders to the crown and Moreau-Naudet is right at the front of the pack. This is supported too with a two-star rating in La Revue du Vin de France – only Raveneau and Dauvissat rate higher in the region.
The wines from Moreau-Naudet have always stood out to me for energy and fullness of flavour, they are wonderfully textural and rather than assault you head on with that trademark oyster shell minerality, instead they leave it draped gently across your palate on the finish.
The 2018 vintage played right into Moreau-Naudet’s style and while some less competent estates struggled to find the balance between flesh and finesse, the wines from Moreau-Naudet were wonderfully balanced, richly flavoured, but not lacking poise and precision.
We offered these wines several months back upon their release and they were snapped up hungrily by savvy punters. We have now been very lucky to receive a second shipment of these wines and so are offering them once more.
The two wines on today’s offer are the AC Chablis and we also have a few dozen of the excellent old vine Les Pargues as well. Les Pargues, while not a 1er cru wine is a noticeable step up from the AC Chablis, delivering more intensity and depth.