Nervi Conterno Gattinara 2017 New Arrival

You might recall my offer for the 2016 version of this wine last year. It was possibly my wine of the year and showed the dramatic effect on quality at Nervi since Roberto Conterno (of Barolo's greatest producer, Giacomo Conterno) took over the property a few years back. As I wrote last year, I believe Roberto Conterno is on another level when it comes to winemaking talent and his attention to detail is mind blowing stuff. Nothing is left to chance and his innate understanding of what elements contribute to a great wine extend beyond the mere technical and into the realm of artist.

The 2017 is another step forward in quality if that were possible and undoubtedly the addition of the all the single vineyard sites to this wine which weren't made has elevated to next level status. Or, as Antonio Galloni says making it an overachieving wine that delivers the goods. 

For a little context and background:

In and of itself Nervi has been one of the greatest sources of Nebbiolo in Italy for generations. The area, north of Piemonte has fallen off the radar from the days when it covered over 40,000 hectares and was more revered than Burgundy! These days it covers just 800 hectares in total but there is a revival going on. In recent years there has been a rush back to these exceptional old vineyards to reinvigorate and reintroduce the wines to a new generation.

The Nervi family sold in 1991 to an Italian industrialist who then on sold to a group of Norwegian wine collectors. They continued to make exceptional wine and early on asked Roberto (a close friend) to assist them. When it came time to sell again, they felt it was important the winery go to a significant person and asked Roberto to purchase the vineyard. He told me, he wasn't looking to buy a new estate but the calibre of the place was too good to pass up - 23 hectares with holdings in the best crus...sold! Since then he has made small changes in the cellars and equipped the estate with one of his bespoke bottling lines. I only mention the latter because it's a remarkable piece of machinery - bespoke built from Conterno's own design and the most sophisticated bottling line I've ever seen. In his Monforte cellars it stands like a museum piece in the middle of the bottling hall. Quite something. Really. 

Considering, Roberto's Barolo is now stratospherically expensive and hard to get, this wine is a window on his ethereal styling for the price of a normal DOCG Barolo. Hard to go past for me, it's now a feature of my personal cellar buying.


Cheers

Michael

All Results

1 Item(s)

All Results

1 Item(s)