William Fevre Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouguerots 2017

In another instalment of “man this is amazing but maybe I opened it a little too early” I present to you the absolutely brilliant Fevre Cote de Bouguerots.
The 2017 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru is mind-bending. ANTONIO GALLONI

The end result of ‘the Chablis difference’, for the drinker, is that there is a greater level of consistency within Chablis than elsewhere in Burgundy. Every level of Chablis offers fine-value terroir wine, mouthwatering and unique. ANDREW JEFFORD, Decanter Magazine

“As to the style of the 2017s, I would describe them as super-pure and concentrated, indeed they could be thought of as being like 2014…. Moreover I think that they will age extremely well.” BURGHOUND

Personally, I would go back and take a serious look at any 2017s you can find on retail shelves and wine lists. 2017 is exceptional as I noted in my tasting report last year. They have serious Chablis character with a sturdy backbone of acidity, concentration, weight and ripeness. It was a great vintage for so many producers right across the scale of classification. NICK STOCK, jamessuckling.com 2019

As I wrote last year, fresh, tensile wines that are classical in style have been the watchword at the 78-hectare Domaine William Fèvre for more than a decade. WILLIAM KELLEY, The Wine Advocate 2019

The 2017s are brilliant across the board. Readers will find wines with tons of energy, freshness and verve, all typical of a classic vintage for Chablis. ANTONIO GALLONI, on Fevre’s 2017s

Bougros Cote de Bouguerots may not be the first lieu-dit that pops in to your head when you think of great Grand Cru Chablis. When it comes to Fevre that is a shame as it is often at the top of their quality pyramid along with Preauses, for me. That isn’t saying that their Clos or Valmur aren’t up there with the best, just that they own some of the most prestigious territory in the other Grands as well. In a vineyard as large as Chablis Grand Cru location is key. That is something this climat has in spades.

Located at the base of Bougros, the Cote de Bouguerots is on an incredibly steep incline with plenty of exposure and very shallow, poor, gravely soils sets it apart from the rest of Bougros and stamps an indelible imprint on the wines which is unmistakable and unique amongst the rest of Chablis Grand Cru.

For me the Fevre bottling of Cote de Bouguerots (I have to check the spelling every time I write it. I wonder if that’s part of the problem? I mean, I can’t spell it let alone pronounce it) always stands out from their other Grand Cru for its muscle and power. It’s a lieu-dit that seems to provide huge volume and intensity while also capturing the minerality and sizzling energy you expect from a site of this calibre. Chablis on the more powerful end of the scale, comparatively, than its neighbours.
For me it is often the pick of their Grands, well often enough that it’s worth mentioning. As you would expect, especially in cooler years, the exposure of the site really lends it a lot of advantages. In 2017, like 2014, this is the stand out in Fevre’s extraordinary line up of wines.

As per the title of this email I went in early with this and opened it up recently. I make no apologies for the decision. I needed Chablis and when the hankering strikes wild horses couldn’t keep me away.

To get it out of the way quickly, before I move on to the important bits, this is one of the best 2017s I have tasted. It has everything going for it that I love in truly epic Chablis. Absolutely packed tight with palate staining intensity that pushes across the palate in a focused line of power, sizzling energy and vividly pure fruit punctuated with twinges and pangs of minerality. Where you expect it to expand, after all that raging force and presence, it almost implodes on the finish, leaving your taste buds quivering and your entire mouth feeling stained. It’s an extraordinary package. A wine of gravitas and stature.

So, the important bits. I wasn’t sure if there would be any more available but I asked the importer and to my, delighted, surprise they have a small chunk. As I mentioned earlier this is often overlooked in the line up but it remains one of the greatest expressions of Chablis produced in most vintages. Given time Cote de Bouguerots can mature in to a truly magnificent drink, which this is absolutely destined to become.

While it may be hard to pronounce and difficult to spell, it has all you could hope to get from a Grand Cru and then some to spare. As exciting as it is to drink now, which is the best word for it I think, the upwards potential here is huge. Every year you can leave this to mature you will be rewarded with something extra.

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