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Burgundy 2019 Wrap Up October

Burgundy 2019 Wrap Up October - Prince Wine Store

Burgundy 2019 Wrap Up October

The red wines are simply brilliant: most of what I’ve tasted so far has been beautifully balanced, combining a seductive depth of fruit with very classical levels of acidity; and nor is there any coarseness or rusticity, even if the wines have the structure they need for the long haul. At this early stage, 2019 appears to number among the most compelling red Burgundy vintages of the millennium. WILLIAM KELLEY, The Wine Advocate

2019 Côte de Beaune Summary – A Hot and Very Dry Vintage that Produced Fresh, Elegant and Concentrated Wines BURGHOUND

2019 was a vintage marked by some rather challenging weather events, a more common occurrence these days it would seem, but none of the drastic weather we have seen in some recent vintages. Late frost decimated potential yields in some areas. As it was in 2016 the frost seemed to hit a wide and varied array of communes, though without the horrendous devastation that was left in the wake of those frosts. Still, overall quantities are down considerably with some producers marking losses of around 50%.

Overall the lead up to vintage can be characterised as warm, or even hot by Burgundy’s traditional standards. Availability of water was an issue again but the hydric stress doesn’t seem to have been that severe, perhaps why the wines retain such freshness for a warm year?

One other point to note is that not only were yields reduced by the frosts but lots of producers report having smaller bunches and thick skins, which also impacts the final yields. The positives of this can be the added structure, concentration and better acidity. All of which seem to be factors in 2019.

As to the wines I liken them to 09 but with better acidity and less of the overripe characters which marred that vintage. Tannins seem riper, the fruit not so blowsy. Wines of heft, concentration and volume, they will age well based on the muscularity of their phenolics and depth of fruit more than their acidity. Though they aren’t lacking freshness, it just doesn’t factor as much in 19 as say, 15, though that would be the most similar vintage in recent times.

I guess 19s are like 15s but flashier and with more upfront appeal and immediacy. From what I have seen so far the best certainly have the requisite stuffing to age but many also have plenty of joy to offer up in their youth.

Unlike many years where it is important to distinguish between whites and reds I think these generalisations can be made about both varieties, within reason obviously, it is not plausible to give a completely detailed account of all the communes and their wines so these are a rough rule of thumb. By that I mean the whites and reds are concentrated, powerful, intense wines that are marked by the lower yields but retain freshness and verve while delivering plenty of character.

Wines that will offer a lot of joy to a lot of people across a broad period of time.

Domaine de Bellene

Nicolas Potel no longer makes the wines that bear his name, he makes them at Domaine de Bellene and they’re superb. JONATHAN RAY, The Telegraphe

Potel is now an old hand in the Côte and it shows as the quality is excellent. Stylistically, if you’ve enjoyed the Potel wines in the past, there is no reason that you would not enjoy either variation of the Bellene wines as they are classic in the best sense of the term.  BURGHOUND

Nicolas Potel unequivocally described the 2018 vintage as “the best that I have ever made! But it wasn’t easy for a number of reasons, not the least of which was how fast the fruit was ripening just before the harvest and I was definitely worried that we might have excessive ripeness if we didn’t act swiftly. As such we did fully 11 consecutive days of ripeness testing leading up to the harvest and it was becoming rapidly clear that maturity levels were spiking. So I chose to begin picking on the 6th of September and we picked the 24 ha of domaine fruit in only 6 days thanks to having hired 110 harvesters! In hindsight I am very happy with the decision of when to pick and how fast to pick as I have never before brought in such beautiful fruit. BURGHOUND

 

  1. Domaine de Bellene Volnay Les Grands Poisots 2019
    Domaine de Bellene Volnay Les Grands Poisots 2019
    The 2019 Volnay Les Grands Poisots comes from just half a hectare of vines planted in 1985. It offers touches of dark chocolate on the entry, then plush red berry fruit and a subtle marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with good grip, fine depth and mineralité and plenty of energy on the finish. I like the chalky texture of this Volnay. NEIL MARTIN, www.vinousmedia.com
    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
    Special Price $112.00 Regular Price $125.00 As low as $108.00
  1. Domaine de Bellene Nuits St Georges 2019
    Domaine de Bellene Nuits St Georges 2019
    Notes of freshly turned earth, floral and underbrush add breadth to the various dark berry fruit scents. There is again excellent volume and mid-palate density to the sappy medium weight flavors that possess classic Nuits muscle though perhaps just a bit less rusticity than usual. This is really quite good and fashioned in a built-to-age style.
    Sweet Spot Outstanding. BURGHOUND, www.burghound.com
    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
  1. Domaine de Bellene Vosne Romanee Les Quartiers de Nuits 2019 Vieilles Vignes
    Domaine de Bellene Vosne Romanee Les Quartiers de Nuits 2019 Vieilles Vignes

    Dense purple, a fraction less intense than the Nuits-St-Georges. There is still huge weight here, but with lifted elegance. A vigorous finish, including a very good weight of balanced dark fruit, excellent length. JASPER MORRIS, www.insideburgundy.com

    An overtly floral-suffused nose displays a lovely array of spice elements on the essence of red berry fruit aromas. I very much like the mid-palate mouthfeel of the sappy medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a powerful, rustic and mocha-inflected finish. This is quite a robust Vosne villages that will require at least some patience. BURGHOUND, www.burghound.com

    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
  1. Domaine de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons L'Eclos des Abeille Chardonnay 2019
    Domaine de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons L'Eclos des Abeille Chardonnay 2019

    The 2019 Côteaux Bourguignon "L’Eclos des Ebeilles" Blanc comes from four vineyards. It is a cuvée that Potel aims at restaurants and will probably become the domaine’s largest label. The pretty nose features touches of white flowers, and the palate is quite creamy in texture, revealing almond and light nutty notes on the finish. NEAL MARTIN

    Attractive pale lemon, touch of banana with lemon skins behind. Very saline, but juicy and interesting. At the moment from clays below Nuits-St-Georges JASPER MORRIS MW

    2019
    chardonnay
    France
    358
  1. Domaine de Bellene Saint Romain Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2019
    Domaine de Bellene Saint Romain Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2019

    The 2019 Saint-Romain Village Blanc needs coaxing from the glass and eventually reveals light red apple, fresh pear and grassy aromas. The palate is well balanced with a waxy-textured opening, moderate levels of acidity and a touch of stem ginger and lemongrass that enlivens the finish. Enjoy this over the next 4–6 years. NEAL MARTIN

    Glowing bright pale yellow. Middleweight plus, in fact a lot of concentration here for St Romain, lightest lick of salt, mix of white and yellow fruit, good length. JASPER MORRIS MW

    2016
    chardonnay
    France
    358

Robert Groffier

I have been feting the winemaking of Nicolas Groffier for three or four years now. Where once the domaine had a penchant for rather over-extracted wines, Nicolas has navigated a different course with completely different wines: elegant, full of tension and completely respectful of their terroirs. NEIL MARTIN

The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. PEARL OF BURGUNDY

  1. Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2019
    Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2019
    The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and is made entirely with whole bunches. This has a very well-defined, quite floral nose with violet-infused red and blue fruit, fine delineation and poise. This is understated compared to previous vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite citric and edgy with blood orange and a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. This gains weight with aeration that emphasizes more its blue fruit character. Very long in terms of aftertaste, this should age with style. (97) NEAL MARTIN
    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
  1. Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 2019
    Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 2019
    The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix 1er Cru comes from 80-year-old vines, this blend including 50% whole bunches. It has a powerful nose with iris and sous-bois aromas infusing the predominantly black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, full of tension and quite precise, yet still a little "compact" on the finish. It will require three or four years to unfold once in bottle. NEAL MARTIN
    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358
  1. Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2019
    Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2019
    Matured in 25% new oak and 90% whole bunches, the 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru is the most opulent of Groffier’s 2019s with kirsch and orange zest infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a little oak to be subsumed on the entry. Good weight, quite muscular for a Chambolle with liberally sprinkled black pepper enhancing the finish. A little stocky, bottle age will smooth any jagged corners. NEAL MARTIN
    2019
    Pinot noir
    France
    358

Gerard Raphet

 

We love these wines for their pure fruit, their persistence on the palate and their fidelity to the terroir that the Raphet family has worked for generations—they are classic, beautiful wines that because of their balance and purity will age very well, too. Ridiculously limited. Indeed of all our Burgundy partners, Raphet inspires the most emotion when trying to describe what exactly makes these wines so captivating. Raphet Burgundy surprises and delights; it opens the possibilities of what great, old-vine Burgundy can do, and just how intimate and special that experience can be. KERMIT LYNCH

This is now certainly a good source, for Morey st denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, along with grands crus Clos de Vougeot, Clos de la Roche, Charmes-Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze. JASPER MORRIS MW

Gérard Raphet took off the running of the family Domaine back in 2002 and nowadays is assisted by his daughter Virginie. I absolutely loved the two latest vintages of Clos de Vougeot, so much so that I was compelled to mention Raphet here and make a vow to visit the domaine on my next visit to Burgundy. NEAL MARTIN

A visit to Raphet is always part amusing and part fantastic but never filled with information. Gerard is a man of few words and his daughter seems to have acquired the same trait (along with others) from her father. This year we first tasted from barrel in the brand-spanking-new winery which, for anyone who had tasted in their cramped old cellars before can attest to, was a treat. Gerard’s daughter took us through the tasting and despite my gentle prodding she assures me nothing has changed in either the winery or the vineyards “why would I change anything?” she asked. Certainly the wines have always been lovely and I have been a fan for many years now but something is different here and has been for a few years now.

Don’t fret if you are a stalwart collector, it isn’t anything drastic and not a shift in style, rather it is in the details and the small degrees. The wines seem to have a degree more richness, tannins seem riper (may be a product of recent vintages), there is a touch more detail in the wines, in general they just seem more finessed these days. I get the impression that Gerard would not be an easy man to convince of anything let alone to change the wines he has made his way for a long time. I also get the feeling his daughter is no less stubborn and may simply be going about her business in her quiet and self-assured manner and the resulting wines are better for it. Worth mentioning that she, unlike Gerard, is also a trained oenologist. ROSCOE

Gueguen

Francois Carillon

As I observed earlier this year, Domaine François Carillon is only a new incarnation of a long-standing family tradition that stretches back many generations: François is named after his great-grandfather, François Virot, the pioneering regisseur of Domaine Leflaive who must rank among the 20th century’s greatest white winemakers, and he began working with his father, Louis Carillon, with the 1988 vintage. François’s style is richer and more gourmand than his brother Jacques’s… these generous, gourmand wines will no doubt find an avid clientele the world over. WILLIAM KELLEY, Wine Advocate

For those who may not be familiar with this estate, Francois Carillon is the son of Louis Carillon who was one of the greatest winemakers of all time in Puligny. His eponymous domaine was rivalled only by those of Leflaive and Sauzet at the time.  

The domaine was split equally between his two sons and the wines continued to be made together until 2010 when Francois begun vinifying his own wines at his new cellar. From the very first release the potential of Francois wines to one day rival his fathers was clear in the bottle and to see them now reach this kind of quality is incredibly satisfying for anyone who loved his father’s wines, as I certainly did, as did anyone who was drinking white Burgundy at that time.

While today Francois wines retain some of his father’s character in terms of their intensity and power, they are also more chiselled and poised than you often got with Louis bottlings. They rely more on the terroir and quality of the fruit than the winemaking. It is a shift that has been seen across the region for some time but it rarely as well executed as it is chez Francois Carillon. Today this estate has, perhaps, surpassed the quality of the father’s and has firmly cemented itself in the top echelon of producers in the region.  ROSCOE

Order Form

REG. PRICESPECIALORDERTOTAL
Domaine de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Maison Dieu 2019 Vieilles Vignes$55.00$55.00
Domaine de Bellene Volnay Les Grands Poisots 2019$125.00$112.00
Domaine de Bellene Nuits St Georges 2019$125.00$125.00
Domaine de Bellene Vosne Romanee Les Quartiers de Nuits 2019 Vieilles Vignes$250.00$250.00
Domaine de Bellene Nuits St Georges Chaignots 1er 2019$270.00$270.00
Domaine de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons L'Eclos des Abeille Chardonnay 2019$55.00$55.00
Domaine de Bellene Saint Romain Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2019$75.00$75.00
Domaine de Bellene Savigny Les Beaune Blanc 2019$80.00$80.00
Domaine de Bellene Cotes de Nuits Villages 2019$80.00$80.00
Domaine de Bellene Beaune Vieilles Vignes 1er Hommage Francois Potel 2019$165.00$165.00
Domaine de Bellene Beaune Blanches Fleurs 2019$80.00$80.00
Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2019$1.00$1.00
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Hauts Doix 2019$510.00$510.00
Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2019$510.00$510.00
Domaine Robert Groffier Gevrey-Chambertin Chambertin Les Seuvrées 2019$290.00$290.00
Gerard Raphet Charmes Chambertin 2019$395.00$395.00
Gerard Raphet Clos Vougeot VV 2019$495.00$495.00
Gerard Raphet Gevrey Chambertin 2019 375ml$75.00$75.00
Gerard Raphet Bourgogne Rouge 2019 375ml$35.00$35.00
Gerard Raphet Chambolle Musigny 2019 375ml$100.00$100.00
Gueguen Chablis Vosgros 1er cru 2019$76.00$76.00
Francois Carillon Bourgogne Blanc 2019 $60.00$60.00
Francois Carillon Monthelie Rouge 2019$75.00$75.00
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