La Chantemerle Chablis Fourchaume 2020 1er

Here there is no mistaking the wine. Estuarine aromas overlay the fruit at first and settle in to the array of reasonably dense and salt tinged fruit which feels, initially, a little edgy before it bursts open with purpose and flair. Ripe, sweet lemons, punchy green apple, big kicks of minerality all kick in to gear, it’s not flashy but there are flashes of what is to come given some cellar time. It crackles and sizzles as it delivers all that character before slowly, slowly tapering off with a few final twinges and pangs of saline tinged fruit. It’s all backed up by some really lovely, stony, chalky textural elements which provide a buffer to some of the acidity and add a complexing agent. Textbook stuff that will satisfy a lot of fans and win many more over to the cause. Excellent. ROSCOE